Brimfeild Awakening: Why We Love EPP!

Nisha and Kim from Brimfeild Awakening are the queens of English Paper Piecing! With a goal to create beautiful designs, share their knowledge, and inspire sewers to try out EPP. They have created a whole business around this classic, handwork technique. There are so many reasons why this talented duo loves EPP, and they were excited to share this love with us in this week’s Off The Spool Interview.

Nisha and Kim’s journey in EPP began years ago when they met at a sewing retreat! After realizing they were from the same town, they became fast friends and embarked on their journey together learning to quilt. Both have a love for antique quilts, often finding inspiration in them for new designs and projects. This is how Brimfeild Awakening got started! When Nisha and Kim found a beautiful antique quilt block at the Brimfeild Antique Market (their name’s sake), they knew they had to find a way to recreate the design. Although the original block was done using what they believed to be hand piecing and applique, the pair started researching techniques they could use to recreate it. This is when they discovered English Paper Piecing. “With EPP you can make complicated designs a lot more easily than with a machine especially old school quilting, you can remake blocks that weren’t originally EPP”. You can trace out or design a line drawing that can then be turned into papers for EPP. They discovered this while recreating their first antique quilt block, but still use EPP for designing or recreating quilts to this day.

 As Nisha and Kim experimented more with EPP they realized there were so many things to love about it. Since the technique is done fully by hand it’s extremely portable. Which was perfect for Kim, a mother whose always on the go. She could work on her EPP projects wherever she went. Sports games, doctor’s appointments, school pickup, anywhere! “Ever since I started EPP it’s like an addiction, I have to have it with me all the time”. Nisha found that she loved the technique for very different reasons. It’s somewhat mindless, you can very easily lose yourself in it with the repetitive motions and simple stitching. She loves to work on her projects cozied up on the couch at the end of the day to unwind. Both women love the look of handwork, as well as the satisfaction they get from creating an entire quilt by hand. “It’s so satisfying to do something completely by hand”. Their work often surprises people, as they find it hard to believe you can create such beautiful, detailed pieces without using a machine. “People always come up and ask what you’re working on, it’s a good conversation starter, they always say YOU DID THAT BY HAND”?

Tips for epp

Nisha and Kim want to encourage sewers to try EPP! “Don’t be scared to start, don’t get paralysis because you think it’s too hard, all of us were scared to start but we were so inspired by what we saw we jumped in”. Start off with a simple design, made up of straight lines. Things like hexies are a great beginner project. Brimfeild Awakening even has some beginner projects available on their site called Beginnings! They are at the same level as hexies but offer variety in design. Starting with something simple allows you to learn how to do the hand sewing aspect of EPP, and you’ll get some gratification from finishing smaller projects. Also be sure to explore social media, as it is a great place to learn and find inspiration. Nisha and Kim are always happy to answer questions or help beginners on the Brimfeild Awakening Instagram. Attending classes at local guilds or events can also be a great way to learn more and begin to hone your skills. This also gives you the chance to meet people and make new friends in your area!

Best Threads For EPP

For EPP it’s extremely important to use fine threads that keep your seams flat and neat! Nisha and Kim’s go to thread for piecing is DecoBob™, our 80wt cottonized polyester. DecoBob™ is lightweight yet extremely strong, making it a perfect choice for creating quilts that will last! A great thread for beginners and experts alike this thread makes precise piecing much easier. Kim highlighted that she even uses DecoBob™ on garments, it’s that strong. When she’s creating quilt coats, or garments with quilting accents Kim says DecoBob™ is her go to.

 The pair also occasionally use InvisaFil™! Our 100wt cottonized polyester thread. This thread is just a touch finer than DecoBob™, for those with a discerning eye who want their stitches as hidden as possible. InvisaFil™ is often preferable when creating quilts for shows, which are examined under a magnifying glass. Generally, they prefer to use DecoBob™ for EPP, and InvisaFil™ for appliqué. But explained that the two can be used interchangeably depending on what you prefer for certain projects. Both women agreed that the most important thing to consider when choosing a thread is the project you’re using it on. Are you creating a garment that will experience ware and tear, or an art quilt that must lie flat, or maybe a baby quilt that needs to look great but will be washed often? Think about the uses of your project, and choose a thread based on that. Neither of them thinks about colour too much, as they are always using dove grey for their piecing and appliqué projects. If you pick one neutral you like, that matches all your projects across the board, then you don’t have to color match for every project. “Especially if you’re using a fabric with a lot of colours in the pattern it matches everything light or dark”!

InvisaFil™

100wt cottonized polyester

DecoBob™

80wt cottonized polyester

Nisha and Kim are also avid users of WonderFil sewing notions, specifically our Bobbinator™ and the Wonder Guard™. The Bobbinator™ was designed to allow you to use bobbins as top thread on your machine! But they have been adopted by the EPP community as one of the best ways to store piecing threads when you're on the road. Pack your Bobinator™ with four DecoBob™ prewound bobbins. Pop whatever bobbin you’re using into the top compartment to feed the thread out of the Bobbinator™ as you stitch! This little tool is compact, & travels extremely well. Making it easy to bring your thread with you on the go without it tangling or falling off the spool. The Wonder Guard™ can serve a similar purpose for sewers who prefer to use full spools when piecing. Just wrap a Wonder Guard™ around your spools to keep the thread safe and neat in your purse or project bag. These products are Nisha and Kim’s go to’s when they know they’ll be stitching on the go.

Where to find Brimfeild awakening

If you are interested in English Paper Piecing and are looking for resources to learn more be sure to follow Brimfeiled Awakening on Instagram and sign up for their newsletter. This is the best way to stay up to date on their pattern releases, see what events they’re attending, and learn more from Nisha and Kim!  Brimfeild Awakening also hosts a sewing retreat each year called Sew Brimfeild in honour of the retreat they met at. This is an open sew quilting retreat held in the greater Washington DC area, featuring classes on English Paper Piecing and other quilting techniques. Sew Brimfield is a stress-free all-inclusive sew-what-you-want open sew retreat that aims to create a fun environment where sewers can exchange ideas, work together, and inspire one another. Those signed up for the newsletter get an early chance to sign up for the retreat. Learn more or sign up now at the link below.

Shop the threads

InvisaFil™

100wt cottonized polyester

Bobbinator™

Bobbin holder

DecoBob™

80wt cottonized polyester

Wonder Guard™

Thread protector

Exploring Handwork With Felice Quilt Designs

Felice Dahlhausen, of Felice Quilt Designs, is an extremely talented teacher who creates beautiful pieces that bring together hand embroidery, big stitch quilting, and fabric dyeing in a unique way. Her love of colour and texture has inspired her work, as well as her love of handwork! How did she discover her love for handwork techniques? In this exciting Off The Spool interview we chat with Felice about her love of handwork, how she discovered it, and why she continues to include it in her pieces to this day!

Felice began her journey as a fibre artist after she retired from her previous job as a high school art teacher in 2011. As an art teacher she had to be well versed in many artistic mediums. Following her retirement, she became set on one medium in particular . . . fibre arts! Felice had always loved quilting and embroidery and wondered where this medium could take her when she was able to dedicate her full attention to it. Handwork had always been a technique she loved to do, recalling that in high school she would cover her clothes in hand embroidered designs. This is why she decided to incorporate handwork, in the form of embroidery and big stitch quilting, into her signature style.

Felice’s Work

Felice’s work brings together hand embroidery and big stitch quilting to create stunning, textured quilts and wall hangings; drawing inspiration from things like flowers, nature, and architecture! The combining of these two techniques is done to add extra dimension to her pieces. Bringing forward certain shapes, colours, and textures. She said that her aim is to “make the surface of quilts more interesting”! She is always looking for new ways to use these techniques and expand upon her work. Handwork is crucial to the pieces Felice creates as it allows her to use thicker threads, and work in small areas of the quilts more easily. Building up hand embroidery stitches with these thick threads is one of the easiest ways to add additional depth. Eleganza™, our long staple Perlè cotton thread, is one of her favourites for this use. It comes in 8, 5, and 3 wt making it extremely thick and bold. Felice tends to use 8wt, and occasionally 5wt in her hand stitching. These are perfect for adding 3D details in the centre of flowers, along the edge of wool appliqués, and in the background of quilts. Felice also uses big stitch quilting to add more subtle texture in and around her designs. These stitches are easy to add throughout the background of a piece, or around certain featured shapes to make them pop more. For this Felice often uses variegated Eleganza™, which adds natural variation to the colour. Colour, and sheen are the factors she pays the most attention to when picking a thread for her embroidery. She likes thread that has a bit more of a shine to it, rather than a matte finish. Again, always thinking about adding depth, texture, and dimensions.

Recently Felice has begun to work with hand dyed fabrics as another way to add depth to her work. She is experimenting with Shibori, and ice dyeing. Shibori is sort of like tie-dye, as it is done by binding fabrics in certain ways and dropping them into dye to create patterns. There are many different forms of the technique that differ in name depending on how the fabric is bound before dying. Ice dyeing is done by adding pieces of ice on the top of fabric, then sprinkling dye powder over it. As the ice melts, organic dye patterns are left on the fabric. Felice uses these techniques to create interesting, and natural looking patterns on her fabrics. She can then add stitching along the dye patterns to accentuate them, for further dimension. These are techniques she is currently experimenting with but looks forward to incorporating more often, as they have allowed her to add an extra unique stamp on her handwork!

Tips For Hand Embroidery

Felice’s dedicated focus on practicing and teaching handwork means she’s learned a thing or two about how to best approach the technique. So, what her are her top tips for anyone wanting to learn more? Well number one she recommends taking a class, or as many classes as you can! “I find some students will say they aren’t able to do a particular stitch, but when they do it with me, I can see how they’re doing it and catch if they’re doing something wrong”. Watching videos is a good alternative if you can’t access in person classes, but having a teacher there to guide you can make all the difference.

Using the correct needles in hand embroidery is so important. Felice highlighted this by saying “I think the needle is the most important thing”. Needles make a big difference, especially when doing more intricate hand embroidery designs, with complex stitches. For decorative stitches like French knots, Felice recommends using Millner needles which have an extremely long shank. This makes it easier to wrap your thread around the needle for tighter, neater decorative stitches.  She also recommends having a chenille needle for more basic stitching! Chenilles have a wider eye and sharp tip, great for all-around hand stitching.

Where To Find Her!

Felice teaches all over at guilds, quilt shows, and sewing shops! If you’re hoping to take a class from her in the coming months, be sure to visit her website to see when and where she will be teaching! Going to the International Quilt Festival this October? Be sure to sign up for Felice’s wool appliqué workshop which will be running Tuesday and Wednesday during the show. Learn the process of wool appliqué, and how to do beautiful decorative hand embroidery stitches as you create a one-of-a-kind wool vase full of flowers. Take your creation home, along with one of her thread packs! If you want to try out our Eleganza™ thread, in 8wt and 5wt, check out Felice’s thread pack which comes with five 8wt spools and four 5wt spools in solid and variegated colours. And be sure to follow Felice Quilt Designs on Instagram and Facebook to follow along with Felice’s work!

Shop Felice’s Favourites

Felice Quilt Designs Thread pack!

9 spools of Eleganza™ Perlé cotton, 5 spools of 8wt and 4 spools of 5wt in variegated and solid colours

Eleganza™

Long staple, Egyptian coots, Perlé threads

All About Wild Boho Hand Embroidery

Nichole Vogelsinger, better known online as Wild Boho, stands out as an exceptionally talented embroidery artist, specializing in creating texture and depth in her multimedia embroidery projects. Elevating hand embroidery to extraordinary levels. With two published books under her belt, and one more on the horizon, this embroidery wizard knows what she’s talking about when it comes to hand work. Delve deeper into her journey from embroidery enthusiast to published author and glean invaluable insights in this extra special Off The Spool interview!

It All Started With a Stitch

There is one stand out reason that sewers and crafters decide to pick up hand work projects. Whether it be hand embroidery, piecing, or big stitch quilting there is one thing all these techniques have in common. They are extremely mobile. Perfect for sewers who want to take their work with them on the go. This is exactly what enticed Nichole into trying out hand embroidery for the first time. As a busy mom, being tied down to a sewing machine just wasn’t a realistic option, as she had to be able to keep an eye on her kids and put down her work easily when needed. She had to find a creative outlet that could seamlessly integrate into her dynamic lifestyle. Very quickly she realized how easy it was to pick up her hoop and bring it with her from place to place, so she could keep up with her kids as she stitched!  

 Beyond convenience, hand embroidery provided Nichole with a canvas for uninhibited creativity, as it allowed her to avoid using patterns. After trying, and not particularly enjoying, cross stitch she realized she enjoyed more freeform techniques where she didn’t have to follow a pattern. Combining different fabrics and adding improvised hand stitching allowed her to relax and let her creativity flow as she worked. As her work progressed, she started to include more and more multimedia elements - such as buttons, beads, trims, sequins, and even clay. Experimenting with different materials enabled her to add more dimension to her pieces to create eye-catching 3D effects. This has since become a signature of her work which she calls “freestyle embroidery”. This distinctive style is what caught the eye of Nichole’s publisher from Lucky Spool, who partnered with her to create and release her series of books! Boho Embroidery: The Pattern Collection, Boho Embroidery: Modern Projects From Traditional Stitches, and coming soon Needles Out!

Designs Full of Dimension

Central to Nichole's “freestyle embroidery” technique is the meticulous layering of fabrics, threads, and embellishments. She starts by choosing the fabric for her project, focusing mainly on colour and texture. Layering together different types of fabric helps her to create a unique base to work on top of. From there she moves on to choosing the thread. Nichole prefers to work with thick, bold threads which can be built up to add extra dimension! Her favourite thread to use is our Perlé cotton, Eleganza™, in 8wt, 5wt, or 3wt.  Eleganza™ is perfect for adding hand stitching that really pops off the fabric to give a 3D look. When attaching beads and sequins Nichole often uses Fruitti™, our 12 weight variegated cotton thread. She highlighted how the thread you use for beading needs to be considered as you can often see parts of it in your final product. Using a variegated thread that matches your project adds a fun detail to the design. Fruitti™ is also extremely strong so can be used to add many beads at a time without breaking. After gathering her threads, she decides on what other multimedia elements she wants to add whether that be beads, buttons, sequins, or custom-made clay pieces which she has started to experiment with lately. In recent projects she had been focused on experimenting with different ways to add more dimension into her work. She does this by using a variety of materials and stitches that help the design to pop off the fabric. WonderFil® pre-cut wool circles can be seen in many of her designs, being stacked on top of one another to add that depth.

Once she has collected all her materials she begins stitching. Sometimes with a plan, and sometimes improvising as she goes. Nichole explained that once she begins stitching, she loses herself in the work. “It’s so stress relieving and relaxing”. And you don’t have to concentrate too hard on what you’re doing, which is an added bonus of not using patterns. Much of her inspiration comes from exploring nature! “My husband is a gardener, and we have lots of gardens around where we live in Philadelphia it’s the garden capitol of the US”. She loves spending time walking through gardens, looking at flowers to discover new colours and texture she wants to replicate. Her works tend to be abstract recreations of things she sees outside and in these gardens.

Embroidery Tips & Tricks

Hand embroidery is one of the most accessible craft for beginners, as you need very little to get started! Just some needles, thread, and a hoop! But what should you know before diving headfirst into the craft? We asked Nichole what tips she would share with people looking to get into hand embroidery. Her number one recommendation is to use high quality tools, specifically needles and threads. “Get good needles and have a variety of needles for different things. Chenille, tapestry needles, milliners. And get good threads. You can tell the difference. Low quality threads tangle and are hard to use”. Good tools make it easier to learn, as they aren’t adding issues as you work. “Use tools that are enjoyable to work with”, so that you enjoy the work you’re doing. Check out the links below to see what tools Nichole recommends!

Eleganza™

Clover Needles

Additionally, Nichole highlighted how important it is to start small. “I think sometimes beginners feel like where do I even start, then people will get a little fearful”. In the classes she teaches she aims to focus on one technique at a time, teaching simple stitches that are easy to use throughout a whole project. At the beginning of her embroidery journey, she used to stitch entire hoops with one stitch to master them before learning the next one. And still ended up with stunning projects that she was proud to show off. It isn’t necessary to become an expert right away. It’s okay to start small and give yourself time to learn and practice. As an easy beginner project Nichole recommended finding a patterned fabric you’re fond of, hoop it, and just stitch over the top of the design. Using one or two versatile stitches.

 “Don’t be afraid to experiment with stitches, get a practice hoop with a patterned fabric you like to look of and just start putting stitches on it, start with one stitch it doesn’t need to be complicated, you can do a whole piece with one or two stitches, start with something simple, add one stitch on each project”

Where To Find Wild Boho

If you want to learn more from Nichole be sure to check out her social media accounts. She is active on Instagram and YouTube where she publishes her work along with detailed tutorials on hand embroidery! Or find her published books on amazon which offer more insight into unique “freestyle embroidery” style. Both are linked below. And keep an eye out for her new book Needles Out coming this summer!

Shop Wild Boho’s Favourite Threads

Sue Spargo Eleganza™

Fruitti™

Eleganza™

Spagetti™

Transfer & Stitch: WonderFil® Rinse Away Design Sheet

We’ve tried every technique under the sun for transferring designs onto our projects! Tracing paper, “disappearing markers”, hand drawing on fabric . . . everything. None of these techniques ever work out quite the way they’re supposed to. That’s why we created the WonderFil® Rinse Away Design Sheet! An easier way to transfer your designs for any sewing project. It’s as easy as 1 . . . 2 . . . 3! Design it, stitch it, then rinse it away!

Crafted for versatility, the Rinse Away Design Sheet is perfect for a wide range of applications including needlework, hand embroidery, thread painting, appliqué, quilting complex designs, and more. Any time you need a simple way to transfer your designs! Start by tracing, drawing, or printing your design onto the Rinse Away Design Sheet. They are compatible with laser or ink jet printers if you enjoy creating designs digitally. You can also hand draw or trace your designs directly onto the sheet. Using the grided backing as a guide. Then peel away the backing and place your design onto your project. Repositioning the design sheet is extremely easy if it takes you a few times to get it just right. Our design sheets are made to be effortless to stitch through, with an adhesive that does not gum up your needle as you work. When you’re finished stitching, rinse away the design sheet with warm water. And you’re done! Transferring your designs has never been so easy.

Rinse Away Design Sheet Project Ideas

The WonderFil® Rinse Away Design sheets are extremely versatile. With a range of options for design creations. They can be a useful notion for all kinds of sewing projects, here are a few ideas!

1.Alternative to marking pencils

Marking pencils are so many people’s go to technique when it comes to transferring designs, but they can be hard to work with. They can be difficult to use on certain fabrics that stretch or slide around. And often leave residue or colour on fabric when they are supposed to disappear completely. You can use the Rinse Away Design Sheet to place designs onto your project, see them more easily, and ensure nothing shifts as you cut or stitch. The Rinse Away Design Sheet will dissolve completely, leaving no colour or residue behind.

2. Clothing

It can be hard to transfer designs onto pieces of clothing. Things like pockets, and collars can’t be hooped, and bumpy or oddly shaped pieces are extremely hard to work with. With the Rinse Away Design Sheet you can easily transfer design onto any piece of clothing. And you can embroider on any part of your clothing … collars, cuffs, hoods … without having to use a hoop!

3. Hand Embroidery

Our Rinse Away Design Sheet makes it easier than ever to transfer your designs and start stitching your hand embroidery projects. The design sheet makes transferring your design quicker while also stabilizing hard to manage fabrics. Additionally, utilizing the design sheet makes it so you can clearly see your transferred design on dark or patterned fabrics.

4. Punch Needle

The Rinse away design sheet provides an easy way to apply designs for a punch needle project and helps to stiffen the fabric, so it does not shift as you work. The design sheet is made to be effortless to stitch through, and our specialty adhesive will not gum up the needle of your punch needle.

5. Quilting

Trying out a new, complex quilting design but feeling nervous about keeping it consistent? Apply the design straight to your quilt with the Rinse Away Design Sheet and trace the design as you quilt to practice. This is a great way to practice free motion quilting designs, with no left-over colour or residue left behind on your quilt.

6. Thread Painting

Create more precise and intricate thread painting projects by applying your design to the Rinse Away design Sheet. Outline and fill out your design like a fabric colouring book!

7. Faux Cross Stitch

The Rinse Away Design Sheet allows you to stitch out cross stitch designs without needing to use specialty fabrics like monks’ cloth or aida cloth. Just print out a grid onto the design sheet or print out the full design to avoid reading complicated pattern instructions. Add cross stitch designs to quilts, clothes, wall hangings and more without worrying about blending aida cloth into your design.

8. Appliqué

Use the Rinse Away Design Sheet to make cutting out appliqué shapes easier than ever. Print your appliqué shapes onto the design sheet and cut around the design. With this technique you don’t have to worry about your template shifting, and the design sheet stiffens your fabric to make cutting precisely a bit easier. Especially when working with complex shapes, sharp points, or curves.

If you found inspiration in this blog to start using the Rinse Away Design Sheet, click the link below to order one now, or get more details on this new product!

Deb Canham: Decorative Serging

Renowned for her expertise in serger techniques, Deb Canham is a notable educator and designer who focuses on helping people to get the most out of their sergers. She travels around the US as a Baby Lock educator, conducting workshops at various stores and events, as well as sharing her amazing patterns. When working on her projects, Deb embraces the use of heavy weight decorative threads, skillfully crafting intricate and artistic designs. Her distinctive style is characterized by her ingenious combination of diverse materials, patterns, and vibrant colors. We got the chance to learn more about Deb, and her work with serging in this weeks Serger Month interview!

Deb began her journey with serging when she decided to get back into teaching following a bit of a hiatus. She purchased a domestic serger, due to their ability to stitch well with the thick, decorative threads she enjoys working with. After purchasing the serger Deb realized there was very few resources for learning how to use it. Working with her serger taught her that there was so much more to it than just stitching seams or finishing garments. She found so much joy in decorative serging, laying down many colours of thread much like an artist working with paint. This, along with the lack of resources for learning to work with sergers, inspired her to travel, teach, and share her knowledge with a wider audience.

 Deb explained that now a days she uses her serger more than her sewing machine! “When I’m going to make something, I ask which machine will make it better, and it’s usually the serger”. This is partially due to her love of decorative threads. The serger loopers allow her to work with the thick threads she prefers more easily, “the whole point is the thread”. Although she mentioned that 12wt threads are the easiest for beginners to work with, she favors 8wt! Specifically, Eleganza™ (our 8wt perlé cotton), and Razzle™ (our 8wt rayon). These threads are thick and stand out making her stitches pop more! Eleganza™ is also extremely strong, and easy to work with even when threading it through the serger needle. When choosing threads, it’s important to consider what the project calls for. If you are working on something like a braided handle, you want to use a strong, durable threads like Eleganza™. If you want to add shine, or sparkle to a coat Razzle™ or Dazzle™ may be better suited! Rayon threads are a bit harder to work with, mainly when being used in the needle. But they make for an eye catching and unique look. Deb highlighted how important it is to experiment with different threads in the serger to see which you prefer to work with, and which have the look you want for a project.  

Deb’s Serger Tips

The number one tip that Deb highlighted was to “get educated”. When Deb started her journey with serging there were very few resources to look to for help. Which is what inspired her to become an educator and help people concur their fear of serging. Now there are many resources you can look to to learn more about your machine, and how to use it. For instance, Deb is starting a serger club that people can join to get continuous support when using their sergers and trying new techniques. In this club Deb will cover beginner and advanced projects once a month, getting people to commit to using their serger regularly. Another great way to get more comfortable with your machine is by doing small projects that are easy to complete. This will get you more familiar with your machine, while offering a sense of accomplishment once these projects are finished. Below we have linked a few of Deb’s projects that she recommends for beginners!

Another tip Deb shared pertained to how you load your fabric into your serger. “When you put your fabric in don’t just put it under the foot, get it right back to the needle”. This ensures that all of your feed dogs are working for you right away. Deb explained that the feed dogs are one of the best parts of a serger. As they make it so much easier to work quickly, and accurately since there are more of them on a serger than on a sewing machine. This tip helps you to take full advantage of what the serger can do.

Deb's ultimate objective was to inspire individuals to embrace the joy of serging without apprehension towards the machine. “It’s just a machine”! Experiment with different stitches, different projects, different threads. Serging can be so enjoyable when you commit to just playing. Utilize the serger on many projects, incorporating decorative stitches, using threads that excite and inspire you! Dedicate yourself to gaining knowledge about the machine and unleashing your artistic potential.

If you enjoyed this blog and want to learn more from Deb, be sure to visit her website, to browse her available patterns and tutorials! Deb teaches often throughout the US and is always updating her pattern catalogue. Follow her on Facebook or subscribe to her newsletter to stay up to date on her new projects, and upcoming classes.

Gail Yellen: Creative Serging

Gail Yellen, a renowned educator in the world of serging, continuously demonstrates her ingenuity and originality through her projects! She skillfully incorporates serging into various aspects of her work, be it for decorative or practical purposes. Her passion, however, truly lies in the art of decorative serging. We dove in to how she uses serging to add decorative touches to bags, home décor, clothing, quilts, and more!

Gail started her journey as a sewing educator after retiring from her career as a dental hygienist. She had been sewing her whole life, recalling that she played with a treadle sewing machine when she was in pre k under her mother’s supervision. Following her retirement, she started taking classes at her local quilting shop! When talking about the first class she took she said, “I learned more in 30 minutes than I had in my whole life”, and she became hooked. After becoming a regular at the shop, she was invited to help out packing orders and taking inventory. While working there she soaked in all the information she could. Listening to customer’s questions, sitting in on classes, and chatting with the other store employees. But what really changed the course of her sewing journey was discovering decorative serging. The first time she laid eyes on a serger she remembers thinking “wow those look very scary”! Although she was a bit apprehensive at first, she got a serger at the recommendation of fellow sewers. Quickly after starting to work with sergers, she fell in love with using them for adding decorative touches to almost anything. This is what launched her into her career, educating people on how to get the most out of their machines.

Why do you serge?

As Gail began to expand her knowledge of serging by learning from other people in the industry she realized how much sergers can do, that sewing machines can’t. Looking at samples from other creators inspired her to experiment more. She even mentioned seeing our samples and finding inspiration in them! “WonderFil® had the most beautiful samples, it was inspiring to see all the threads and all the things you can do”. Experimenting with different threads, stitches, and techniques has taught Gail a lot.

 Her favourite techniques, and stitches change regularly. Right now, her favourite stich is a wide flatlock stitch on her Bernina machine. “It is like 4 stitches in 1! You can do a flatlock with 8wt, you can do a reverse flatlock with different threading and different needles”. The versatility of this stitch makes it a great choice for many projects. Gail also loves doing raindrop stitches and blanket stitches to add accents to projects. She highlighted how much she loves to adjust stitches, often making them wider, to see how that changes the look. The customization of serger stitches is a great feature, which allows for more creativity and personalization. “You can make a stitch the exact way you want it to be”.

 The micro thread control is another function on her machine that allows her to further customize, or tweak stitches. This adjusts the amount of thread that is being fed into the loopers. Gail often increases the amount of thread being fed, which makes her stitches a bit flatter and wider. But you can also lower this depending on what look you prefer!

Gail’s Serger Tips

We asked Gail what her number one serger tip is! She said “test . . . test . . . test! And make samples before going on to the actual project fabric”. Even if you’re doing something simple, it’s important to double check the needle, the thread, and the machine settings. To ensure there isn’t anything that needs to be tweaked before starting your project. And be sure your sample is on the same materials you plan to use, “use the exact fabric, interface it or use batting, whatever you intend to use”. She also mentioned that if you make your samples out of 6” squares, then you can save the sample to use later for different projects. And for future reference, Gail suggests keeping a record of the settings that work best for you as you experiment with different stitches. She takes photos on her phone that show the tension, and any other relevant settings to refer to when doing similar projects later!

Gail pointed out how working with sergers can pose a challenge as they differ greatly from sewing machines.  To gain a better understanding and maintain your machine effectively, she suggests seeking assistance from a nearby dealer. “Find a dealer who is knowledgeable, and has a good service technician, many dealers offer lessons on the machine when you buy it too”! There are also so many groups on social media, especially Facebook, where you can post photos, ask for help, or meet other people learning to serge! These can be a great resource to look too while learning as well. Gail recommends investing in the best machine you can afford, use available resources to learn to use it, then just play! Experimentation is key. Play around with various threads and fabrics, tinker with settings, and explore new projects. Unleash your creativity and don’t be afraid.

What About The Thread

When choosing a thread for her projects Gail likes to get creative! Decorative threads can add a lot to a project and elevate it to a new level. “WonderFil® has wide variety of colours and types of thread to play with which makes it so easy to make things look beautiful”. It is also important to consider the thread quality! Using high quality thread is important when serging as the tension and speed you are working with is higher. So always use a thread you can rely on. Also be sure to consider what project you are working on, and what look you want. One of Gail’s favourite serger threads to work with is Spagetti™, our 12 wt long staple Egyptian cotton. Spagetti™ is perfect for projects where Gail wants a more “country feel”, as it is a cotton with a matte finish. This thread is bold, strong, and low lint making it a great option for serging. Cotton threads are also extremely beginner friendly, and stitch well in most machines!

She also enjoys working with our 8wt rayon threads. One of her favorites is Razzle™, an 8wt rayon that has a stunning sheen, bringing an added level of interest to any stitch. It works wonders for decorative serger stitches when you desire a touch more shine than what a cotton thread can offer. Another great choice is Dazzle™, our 8wt rayon twisted with one strand of metallic, it is an ideal choice for holiday projects that call for a little bit of sparkle. Gail frequently turns to both of these threads when she wants her stitches to truly stand out.

If you enjoy playing with different threads as much as Gail does, check out her Thread Fusion stand. This extra special thread stand allows you to blend together multiple threads, to create your own unique thread. Simply place the threads into the stand, then thread them into the machine together! Add metallic touches to matte cottons, or customize colours to make the perfect threads for your project.

Are you interested in learning more from Gail? Check out her website where she posts upcoming classes she will be teaching, as well as where you can shop her products! Or visit her YouTube channel, where she posts video tutorials and does lives to share her techniques. Her new series, Serger Savvy, is live the 2nd Tuesday of every month. In these lives Gail answers questions sent in by her audience and added in the chat!

Angela Wolf: Serging for Function & Fashion

For this Serger Month interview, we had the chance to sit down with Angela Wolf and discuss how she utilizes serging to create stunning garments! It’s not just about the functional stitching; it’s also about getting creative with decorative stitches and threads. Angela has been designing and constructing garments her whole life, as well as teaching, hosting shows, and creating educational content online focused on using sergers to construct and decorate garments. Angela previously hosted sewing focused TV shows, and was featured as a teacher on Craftsy. Traveling all over the world to share her knowledge, at in person shows and through her digital presence. She is the perfect person to look to for anyone who wants to learn how to use their sergers for more than just structural work!

Of course, as a clothing maker, Angela highlighted how important it is to have a serger. “For finishing seams, it’s a must!” She explained that sergers allow you to ensure that the inside of a garment looks as good as it does on the outside, with a professional and quality finish. Some projects can even be completed using strictly serging, such as leggings. But sergers can be used for a lot more than just crisp seams if you are willing to get creative and experiment. Angela also uses her serger to create quick and easy pintucks, as well as gathering fabric or creating pleats.

“Once you start playing with sergers you realize that they do so much”

Angela mentioned how great it can be to get a serger and just play around with it to learn more about what the machines can do. She aims to encourage people to step outside the box of just using sergers for finishing seams and explore the possibilities, especially when moving into the world of decorative serging, which opens up a whole new way to use your serger. For instance, she uses decorative stitching to add accents on garments or even to create her own fabrics. Often, she will cover a blank fabric with decorative stitching prior to making it into a garment, allowing her to further customize her projects. But she loves continuing to work with all the different functions and stitches to find new ways to use her serger.

“It's good to start small, teaching yourself how to use your machine and doing simple projects. First, learn how to thread your machine! It’s important to know how to properly position the threads, as well as which threads should be used in the loopers and needles.” Angela enjoys using SoftLoc™, our tex 35 wooly polyester thread, in her loopers but this thread cannot be used in the needle. So, she uses Designer™, our 40wt all-purpose polyester thread, in the needles. Learning these basics allows you to create a good base to expand upon. Angela recommends then working on simple projects. “Grab some fabric and make a pillow or something easy to get used to using the serger. Just try it!” Many people get nervous when working on sergers or trying to use the loopers, so this will help you get over these fears and finish some projects.

Angela’s number one tip for anyone new to serging is to always test your stitches “every fabric handles differently in the serger”. Even more so than on a sewing machine, stitches can very on different fabrics and require some fine tunning before starting any project. So be sure to always test all the stitches you will be using, on the fabric you intend to use so you can find the right settings prior to starting.  Especially when working with finicky fabrics such as silk, which Angela works with often for garments.

Thread is another important factor to consider when serging. Angela’s go to threads for structural work are SoftLoc™, for her loopers, and Designer™, in her needle. SoftLoc™ is a great choice for serging projects as it is extremely soft and has great coverage. “The softness of the thread is great for kid’s clothes and seams”.  Colour is also important when choosing a thread for garment construction as you often need your thread to perfectly match your fabric. Angela worked with us in creating the colours for SoftLoc™, so she knows it has all the colour variety she needs for any project. “When we were working on it, I looked through all the existing colours and added colours that were in style” to ensure there was a great selection of colours.

For decorative serging Angela likes to experiment with more decorative threads, “if you use basic thread all the time it’s boring”. She often uses GlaMore™, our 12wt rayon metallic, to add accents on garments with decorative serger stitches. Angela has even used GlaMore™ for rolled hems, to make them functional and fashionable.

If you want to learn more from Angela Wolf, check out her social media and website linked below to keep up with her classes and projects! Or look out for her new show “Fabric to Fashion” on Made Myself TV. This reality-style TV series showcases talented designers and sewists from around the globe!

6 Serging Tips From Pam Mahshie

Did you know that April is Serger Month? To celebrate we have interviewed some of the best serger experts to bring you hints, tips, and insights that can improve your serging! Be sure to stay tuned this month as we have four extra special interviews coming out throughout the month of April.

 First up, we had the privilege of chatting with Pam Mahshie from Bernina America about her work with sergers (aka Overlockers). Pam has been working in the industry for over 40 years and has a passion for showing creators how to use their machines in different and unique ways. Especially sergers! Since she helps to develop machines in her position at Bernina, she is very familiar with what they can do and how they can help people expand their creative horizons.

 When she got started in the industry, sergers were used in such a utilitarian way. But Pam learned very quickly they could be used for so much more, like decorative work and quilting! She was on the ground floor of expanding the uses of sergers, and teaching people how to experiment with them. Finding a passion for teaching people how to get creative.

 While chatting with Pam, we unearthed 6 of her best serger tips, that you can use in your own serger projects. Everything from how to get started, to how to become an expert!

1 Don’t Be Afraid of sergers!

“Number one don’t be afraid of sergers! If you let them take advantage of you, they will!”

 Pam explained that it’s natural to have some apprehension when working with a new machine! But once you can get over that sense of apprehension, there are so many creative ways you can use sergers in your sewing practice. “Any kind of new product, a car, a refrigerator, a serger, have some apprehension. What holds you back? Just yourself!”

As the Overock business manager for Bernina America, Pam aims to teach people how to work with their sergers and get comfortable using them. She highlighted how important it is to practice and explore by trying new things in every project. She said the best thing about serging is that you are always discovering new stitches, new techniques, and new ways to include serging in your projects. But you have to continue to push yourself!

 “Always try to push and do more to make the next thing you learn your favourite thing”.

2 Get to know your serger

Pam emphasized the numerous advancements in serger technology that have significantly reduced the intimidation factor associated with these machines. To fully leverage these features, it's essential to familiarize yourself with your specific machine. For example, air threading greatly simplifies the threading process, particularly for specific sequences. Likewise, larger screens equipped with helpful tips assist sewers in selecting stitches. Therefore, it's crucial to select the right serger for your needs and become acquainted with its features. The more familiar you are with your serger, the greater your capabilities with it will be. Additionally, Pam mentioned that it can be helpful to reach out to your dealer if you have questions. Many sewing shops have classes which teach you how to use your machine. Take advantage of these resources when you can! Or look into Bernina’s resources for their sergers. Pam and the Bernina team are always working to share their knowledge and educate people about serging!

3 Utilize Tools & Accessories

Pam noted how important it is to use the tools that come with your serger. Many sewers overlook the importance of such tools, or never learn to use them properly. Seger tools and accessories can really improve your experience and make for a better end product. She mentioned thread nets as an example! Thread nets come with most sergers and can be extremely helpful, especially when working with metallics. They help the thread to flow more easily into the machine and make for an easier serging experience. But often they get forgotten or left in the box!

4 Utilize the Versatility

Many people believe sergers have only a single function, but Pam explained that this is one of many myths that turn people off from working with sergers. Serger stitches are extremely versatile. Pam highlighted how much she uses her own serger! About 90% of her sewing is done on the serger rather than on her sewing machine. As you sew more with your serger you will find that the same stitch can have a different look depending on if you use the top or bottom side on your project. Even further you can easily adjust the width of your stitch, or the thread weight you are using to change up the look!

 When we asked Pam what her favourite serger technique is she said, “how do you pick just one, that’s what I like is that there doesn’t have to be just one”! There are two sides to a serger machine that both allow for very different stitches. The overlock side and the cover stitch side. It’s worthwhile to work extensively with both “sides” and see how they differ. Possibly finding a favourite technique for each side! Pam said she has different techniques she likes for either “side” of the machine.

5 Use the Right Thread

Pam uses many different WonderFil® threads, depending on what look she wants for a project. Highlighting that it’s important to consider what fabric you are working with, what stitch you’re using, and what you want your end result to be when choose a thread for your project. But her favourite thread to serge with is Spagetti™! This 12wt, long staple Egyptian cotton thread is a great choice for beginners and experts alike. 12wt threads are thick enough to have a big impact but are easy to work with in the serger. “12wt thread elevates the look of many stitches. Or you can take multiple threads and combine them!”

 It’s also important to work with strong threads, that won’t break or shred as you work. Pam mentioned this as well as she explained why she enjoys working with Spagetti™!

 “The twist on Spagetti™ is so strong! I have never had it break while working with it.”

6 Start Small

Many sewers have sergers sitting in their closet at home but have a hard time finding reasons to use them. Pam highlighted that once you find a reason to use your serger, even if it’s just in small ways, you’ll fall in love with it!

 Her favourite project to recommend to quilters, who have a hard time finding ways to use their sergers is attaching your binding. More specifically, using an iron fusible thread (like WonderFil’s Iron N’ Fuse™) in your lower loopers, and stitching around the edge of your quilt before attaching your binding. You can then fold your binding into place, and iron it down. The Iron N’ Fuse will hold the binding in place as you stitch and can be much more effective than pins or binding clips. This is a great beginner project, that Pam says will help you get the serger out of the closet and onto the sewing table.

Pam and the team over at Bernina are extremely passionate about sharing their knowledge! So, if you are looking for more serger tips they have plenty of resources you can look to. You can visit Bernina.com to learn more about their machines, and the features they offer. Or check out The Joy of Serging on YouTube, a series where they chat and sew with special guests to inspire sewers learning to work with the machines!