How to Double Fold Machine Bind a Quilt

We’re going to show you how to make a double fold quilt binding on a sewing machine. If you’re like us, we’re always eager to get our quilt finished at this point, so this is our favourite way to get this final step done quickly while making sure it still looks perfect.

Apart from the quilt itself, you’ll need a few basic things. We’re going to use this 80wt thread called DecoBob to stitch the binding. It’s a very fine thread with a matte finish, so it will hide in the fabric and make the stitching less obvious. It’s also a very strong thread despite its size, so this is a great option for piecing and stitching anything down securely.

You’ll also need a cutting mat with a rotary cutter and quilting ruler to cut your binding accurately. An iron is needed to give your binding strips a quick press. We’ll also need a disappearing marking pen or a piece of fabric chalk.

Most importantly, you’ll need the fabric you want to bind your quilt with. We’ll show you how to cut and sew it together. Most patterns will tell you how much fabric you need for a binding, however if you’re doing your own quilt, you’ll have to do some math to figure out how much you need. There is an excellent binding calculator provided by Quilter’s Paradise. Alternatively, you can use the following formula to calculate how much you’ll need.

Take the width of your quilt multiplied by two and add it with the length of your quilt multiplied by two to get the circumference of your quilt. Then add another ten inches to be on the safe side so you don’t run out of binding. Take this number and divide it by the width of your fabric to find out the number of strips you need to cut to complete your binding.

So for example, we might have a 20 inch by 30 inch quilt. The width of our binding fabric is 43 inches, and we want the binding to be 2 and a half inches wide.

20 inches times two, plus 30 inches times two, plus an extra 10 inches to be safe, equals 110 inches. We’ll take the 110 inches and divide that by the width of fabric, which is 43 inches, to get 2.6 strips of binding required. We can round this up to 3 strips to make it easier.

Knowing this, we want to cut 3 strips along my width of fabric that are 2 and a half inches wide each to have enough binding for the quilt.

Now that we know how much fabric we need, we’ve gone and cut the strips to the measurements required. Next we need to sew these strips together into one long binding. To do that, we need to trim both ends of the strip to a 45 degree angle, which can be measured on the quilting ruler. Make sure they’re both trimmed facing the same direction.

Take the ends of two different strips and place them right sides together, diagonal ends matched up, and pin them together. However, if you line up the corners perfectly and are using a quarter in seam allowance, you will notice that the pieces will end up a quarter inch off.

So you will need to offset the pieces by a quarter inch when you pin them together so that after it’s sewn, your pieces will line up perfectly.

Because the thread we’re using is so fine, we’ll set the stitch length to 1.80. Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew the pieces together.

Do this for the rest of your strips until all the pieces are sewn into one long strip.

You can leave the end of the last strip squared off.

Turn the binding strips wrong sides together and press to crease it together, creating the double fold binding. However if you feel confident and don’t want to spend time pre-creasing your binding, you can fold it by hand as you sew along.

Now we’re going to open the binding up on one end and fold it over into a diagonal line so the touching edges are straight. Press the fold to create a crease. We’re now ready to start sewing it on!

We’re going to start by stitching down the end that has the diagonally folded edge. Lay the binding out completely open on the back side of the quilt, starting with the end you made the diagonal fold. We prefer to position it around the middle of the quilt on one of the long sides.

Match the edge of the binding with the edge of the quilt. Stitch it on a ¼” seam allowance using your walking foot and sew to a little bit after the raw edge of the fabric.

Snip your threads and take your quilt out of the machine. Now we’re going to fold over the binding back in half. Move your quilt about three to four inches down from where your stitching ended and start stitching your double fold binding down also with a ¼” seam allowance. That gap will create a nice pocket to tuck the tail into when you come back around.

At the corner of the quilt, we’re going to place a pin right where the quilt ends so we know where it is. Exactly ¼ of an inch away from the pin, we’re going to stop sewing. Back stitch to make sure your stitching doesn’t come out and take the quilt out of the machine.

Finger press the binding into a right angle. Then fold it back down over itself to form a tidy corner like so. Make sure the edge of the binding is lined up with the edge of the quilt. We’ll use a pin to keep it from shifting.

Put the quilt back in the machine and continue sewing at a ¼” seam allowance down the next edge. Continue doing this for the rest of the quilt.

Now we’ve come back around to where we first started. We can now join the strips together. Since we have a lot of extra binding, we’ll need to trim some off, making sure that there’s still enough to completely fit inside the pocket we made, otherwise there will be a hole in the binding.

Tuck the trimmed end into the open pocket we made earlier with the diagonal piece folded around on top. Holding it place with your fingers, continue sewing down until you reach the starting stitches. Trim your threads and now you can see the binding is completely stitched to the back side of the quilt.

We can now focus on sewing the binding to the front of the quilt. Fold the binding around to the front and use the quilting clips to hold them in place.

Just like on the other side, sew down with a ¼” seam allowance. You can start closer to the corner this time to hide your backstitch.

When you reach a corner, fold the next edge over to make a crisp diagonal mitered line and sew over it. Keep the needle down and pivot the quilt to the next edge, keeping in mind to stay at a ¼” seam allowance.

Continue sewing all around the quilt until you finish stitching it all down. There will be a small gap left where you started and ended your binding. If you wish, you can hand sew this down, however it’s up to you as we find that it doesn’t cause a problem to leave it like this.

And there we have it! One beautifully bound quilt.

We hope this tutorial made it easier for you to bind your next quilt! Let us know in the comments if you learned something new.

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Sewing Raw Edge Appliqué Using Iron Fusible Thread (FREE Pattern Included!)

Raw edge appliqué is a simple, fast, and easy way to appliqué your pieces together because it doesn’t require any extra steps. The most common way to sew raw edge appliqué is to use fusible stabilizer, however this can leave your appliqué looking and feeling stiff. In this video, we’ll show you how to sew raw edge appliqué using iron fusible thread, as well as some tips and tools to make it easier. Included is a free pattern to practice with or turn into your own unique project!

Trace your appliqué shapes onto the fabric using a temporary pen or piece of chalk and cut them out. We always recommend using batik fabric for raw edge appliqué because the fabric is less prone to fraying. If your shapes are more complex, or have a lot of angles in them, we suggest using a smaller, sharp pair of scissors to do your cutting with as it makes it much easier to do.

We’re going to load the machine with two different threads. In the top is a temporary regular sewing thread that will be pulled out later. However, in the bobbin we’ll be winding this thread called Iron ‘n Fuse. This is an iron fusible thread that will fuse the appliqué pieces to the fabric.

If you have appliqué pieces that have smaller shapes, you can add an optional layer of water soluble stabilizer underneath to make it easier to sew on the machine. You don’t need to cut it out to match the shape of your appliqué perfectly, just cut out a rough shape that your appliqué will easily fit over.

Increase your machine’s stitch length slightly to make it easier to pull the top thread out later. Sew all the way around your appliqué piece.

Position your appliqué on your project and press with high heat. The best part about using Iron ‘n Fuse thread is that it can still be lifted and repositioned as needed. It won’t fuse permanently to your project. Once your appliqué is in place, you can pull out the top thread.

To stitch your appliqué down permanently, you can use any variety of threads depending on the look you wish to achieve. The choice is yours, however for my appliqué I’ll be using this 50wt variegated cotton called Tutti. I love this thread because it’s been double gassed so it has a clean, ultra low lint finish, and the colour changes on the thread are quicker.

Sew around your appliqué about 1/8th of an inch away from the edge. If you want to make a bolder outline on your appliqué, you can go around again a second time. Raw edge appliqué tends to have a scrappy look, so don’t worry about making your lines perfectly aligned with each other.

Alternatively, you can hide the raw edge of the appliqué by selecting a satin stitch on your machine and sewing over the edge to cover it. We chose to stitch a bold outline around the appliqué pieces using this thicker 12wt thread called Spagetti. Like Tutti, it’s also a low lint cotton, but this thicker thread is a great way to add emphasis or an outline to a motif in your project.

After you’re finished permanently stitching your pieces down, don’t forget to wash your project to remove the water soluble stabilizer, if you chose to use it. No matter which creative way you choose to finish your raw edge appliqué project, this method is a fool-proof way to reduce the stiffness of an iron-on stabilizer often used in this technique.

If you’ve tried this for yourself, tag us on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or by the hashtag at #wonderfil. We would love to see your sewing projects and progress! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

7 Ways to Use a Sashiko Machine

Sashiko is a hand technique originating from Japan that uses a simple running stitch, however this machine replicates the look of a running stitch done by hand. This amazing machine can do all sorts of things with this one simple stitch, however they can be a little pricey to buy. We’ve compiled 8 techniques you can easily do yourself on the sashiko machine so you know how to use every advantage it brings.

The sashiko machine ensures stitches are uniform and consistent, making it easier and faster to accomplish your project. It only has one kind of stitch and threads differently from a regular sewing machine because it only uses the bobbin thread and no top thread.

Traditionally sashiko is done with white cotton thread on indigo dyed fabric, however you can choose any colour of thread and fabric you want. With a sashiko machine, you can even do more than just decorative stitching!

You’ll want to choose a medium weight thread as the sashiko machine will double up the stitches. So if you have too heavy a thread, you’ll end up with shredding and stitch consistency problems. I’ll be demoing with two threads. The first is a 35wt thread called Silco. This is a synthetic cotton thread that’s completely lint free. The second is Konfetti, a 50wt Egyptian cotton thread.

1. Quilting:
If you love the look of hand quilting but don’t have the time or patience to quilt an entire quilt by hand, you can do it with the sashiko machine instead. This is also a great solution for anyone with arthritis in their hands. The sashiko machine gives you the look of hand quilting, but at ten times the speed!

2. Appliqué:
You can use the sashiko machine for raw edge appliqué. This is a simple but beautiful way to appliqué your pieces down with a simple running stitch and combines the traditional look of sashiko with your appliqué project.

3. Adding trims:
The sashiko machine is perfect for quickly adding trims to clothing or home décor items, with the advantage of giving it the hand stitched look. I like to add it to sleeve cuffs, collars, bags, or pillows.

4.Couching:
It’s really easy to do couching without the need for a couching foot like a regular sewing machine requires, however it will look a little different. Place the ribbon or yarn you want to couch down horizontally across the needle and take one or two stitches, then pull it over to the other side of the needle and take another stitch or two. Continue this process to finish couching it down!

5. Braiding:
Another method of couching with the sashiko machine that creates a different look is by braiding two threads back and forth in front of the needle. Take your yarn or ribbon and place the center of it in front of the needle so you’re holding both of the ends in your fingers. Take one or two stitches to secure it, then weave both ends opposite across the front of the needle and take another one or two stitches. Continue doing this and you’ll end up with a woven couched thread.

6. Fabric flower:
Using organza or another similar lightweight fabric, you can create a flower by scrunching up the fabric and stitching over it so that the edges flare up. Take a piece of fabric, about 5 inches wide and 25 inches long, depending on how large you want the flower to be. Position it along the centre of the fabric and push it up against the needle before taking a few stitches. Continue doing this while slowly turning the fabric clockwise. You’ll end up with a beautiful fabric flower that’s perfect for decorating a birthday party, or upcoming baby or wedding shower!

7. Pleats:
You can easily add a decorative pleat on a piece of clothing or home décor item using the sashiko machine. Position your fabric where you want the pleat to fall from and push the fabric up against the needle. Take a few stitches to secure it and continue to press and stitch as you sew straight down. The result is a beautiful gathered pleat.

There’s so many creative ways to use the sashiko machine, so please tell us what you’ve made in the comments below! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Choose the Right Machine Needle

Due to the variety of fabrics and threads available on the market, needle manufacturers have quite a selection to choose from. Every needle has its own purpose, but how do you know which is the best one to use for your project? We’ll walk you through the different categories of needles, the anatomy of a needle, and when to choose a certain type of needle. We’ll be focusing on domestic sewing machine needles as these are the most widely used.

Part 1: The Anatomy of a Needle

Every needle is made up of roughly the same parts. On the front of the needle, you’ll see the point of the needle that pierces the fabric. Above that is the eye which the top thread runs through, and the groove which runs all along the shaft of the needle. This groove allows the thread to be nestled inside, protecting it as the needle runs through the material and keeping it out of the way so it can glide through the material without protruding, thus creating smooth and even stitches.

Above the shaft is the shank which is the part of the needle that is held by the machine. The shaft of most domestic sewing machine needles usually have a rounded front face and a flat back side to make it easy for insertion. At the top of the shaft is the butt which is the part that is inserted into the machine. The shoulder is the section between the shank and shaft. This is where most needle brands will add a strip of colour indicating the type of needle it is.

On the back side of the needle you will find the scarf, an indentation that makes it easier for the bobbin thread to grab the top thread and create a stitch. The length of the scarf will vary depending on the type of needle.

Part 2: Needle Sizing System

There are two ways to measure needle size, the American and European systems. Both are usually indicated on the packaging of the needle. American sizes usually range from 8 to 19, while European sizes range from 60 to 120. For example, the sizing on this Schmetz needle case indicates the European size on the left and the American size on the right. So a 90/14 needle means it’s a 90 in the European size and 14 in the American size. The larger the number, the larger the needle.

You will want to pair a smaller size needle with a finer thread and a larger needle with a larger thread. Using too large of a needle will cause the thread to sit in a hole too large for it, which can look ugly. And a needle that’s too small for the thread will cause excess friction from the thread pulling through too small of a hole in the fabric and won’t fit well in the eye of the needle, which will lead to thread breaks.

Part 3: Types of Needles

Universal Needles

Universal needles are intended for all-purpose sewing. It is recommended to use a universal needle for woven fabrics as it is designed with rounded edges and a tapered point, meaning the needle isn’t so sharp that it will shred the fabric. The shape of the needle allows it to slip through woven fabrics easily rather than cutting through it which can wreck the fabric.

Super Non-Stick Universal Needles

A popular new needle on the market is a super non-stick needle. These universal needles are coated with a super non-stick coating like the kind you’d find on a Teflon pan. This coating allows the needle to glide through tacky materials like stabilizer, which makes a huge difference in improving the stitch quality and consistency and preventing thread breaks.

Ballpoint/Jersey Needles

Similar to universal needles, a ballpoint or jersey needle has rounded edges to avoid cutting the fabric. However, it differs in that it carries a much more blunted point in comparison to the universal, allowing it to slide between the weave of the fabric and preventing holes or runs in the knit fibres. It is best used for close knit fabrics such as jersey or interlock fabrics.

Embroidery Needles

Because machine embroidery involves a lot of high-speed stitching in a dense area, embroidery needles offer a larger, elongated eye that helps protect the thread, preventing it from breaking. The scarf is also specially shaped to prevent thread breaks and keep a consistent stitch quality at high-speed.

Topstitching Needles

Topstitching needles are designed with an extra-large eye and sharper point, allowing it to accommodate larger decorative top threads. Other specialty threads that are usually considered less strong, such as metallic threads, should also be used with this needle as the larger eye allows the thread the flexibility to move around more, preventing thread breaks.

Metallic Needles

These needles are similar to an embroidery needle in that they are designed with a larger polished eye and scarf to prevent the thread from shredding. These needles are intended for metallic threads.

Quilting Needles

Quilting needles are designed with an extra-long shaft and tapered point made to penetrate several layers of fabric and batting. Its slightly rounded point prevents damage to the multiple layers of material and keeps the thread from shredding.

Microtex/Sharps Needles

These needles are more slender and much sharper than most needles. They are designed to penetrate finely woven, delicate or microfibre fabrics, or for doing appliqué or quilting with fine threads.

Denim/Jeans Needles

Denim and similarly thick cotton fabrics like canvas may cause problems with other needles due to the heavy material the needle must sew through. This needle is designed with an extra strong and sharp tip, as well as a slender eye that aids the thread in gliding through the thick material and preventing skipped stitches.

Leather Needles

Designed for heavy and dense materials such as leather, artificial leather, and thick non-woven materials such as vinyl. Leather needles have a distinct triangular shape made to penetrate through these materials with a clean, large hole.

These are just some of the most common domestic sewing machine needles on the market. Let us know in the comments if you learned something new from this video or tell us about a sewing needle you can’t live without. 

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Sew an Invisible Zipper With a Regular Zipper Foot

Do you want to elevate your sewing projects for a more refined and professional look? One way to do so is by sewing invisible zippers! Invisible zippers are the perfect way to give your projects a seamless transition by hiding the zipper in a seam. All you need is your garment, invisible zipper, regular zipper and presser foot, fabric marker, pins and a ruler.

Before we begin, let’s look at the differences between an invisible zipper foot and regular zipper foot.

To compare, both feet have very different designs, sewing steps, and ease of use. For the invisible zipper foot, there will be two grooves in the middle of the foot. This allows for a centered stitching line. (Keep in mind that you may need to also adjust your machine’s needle position if you use it).

On the other hand, the regular zipper foot has left and right notches to allow you to stitch closer to the edge of your project. Many machines do not come with an invisible zipper foot, so in this tutorial, we’ll show you how to do it with just a regular zipper foot.

Take the fabric or project you will be working on and lay it out, pulling it smooth. Iron the fabric area if necessary. Using fabric markers or pins, mark the top edges at your desired allowance where you want your zipper to be. For this tutorial, we will do a 3/4” edge. This step can be optional however, it certainly helps to indicate your zipper placement to ensure that you have aligned the pieces precisely. Next, you will mark your desired vertical seam allowance, we will be using a ¼” seam allowance.

Before you start sewing, we need to prepare your zipper to ensure it lays flat and sews well. Take your iron and set it to the lowest heat setting. Unzip your zipper, then press and iron the zipper teeth away from the zipper tape. During this step you should lift the iron periodically to avoid melting your zipper teeth or coils.

It is good to note that the following steps will be entirely different if you use an invisible zipper foot. When using a regular zipper foot, your zipper and fabric will be sewn right sides together onto the fabric. Remember to make sure your zipper is unzipped to the end/bottom stopper for this step. Then place down the right side of your zipper onto the fabric right side. Line up the zipper coils at the exact line where you’ve marked your seam allowance, pin into place.

Now you are ready to sew your zipper, but what thread should you use? For light to medium garments, we highly recommend using an 80wt thread called DecoBob on the top and bottom. This is a very fine cottonized polyester thread that will really blend into the fabric and not add any extra bulk to the seams, so your invisible zipper will look clean and tidy. I’ll also be pairing it with a size 80/12 needle.

Position the zipper teeth under the foot’s left groove and begin sewing down from the top edge. Make sure to reverse stitch and forward to keep in place. Keep stitching until you’ve reached the point where your needle is parallel to your zipper stopper. Reverse and forward at the end to keep it in place and remove from the sewing machine.

Before sewing the other side of the zipper, flip your entire project so that your sewn side lays on top of the unsewn piece. Make sure the zipper edge is lined up with the seam allowance line at the top and side, and pin into place.

Now sew the zipper to the other side of your fabric piece and repeat the steps as before. Remember to make sure your zipper coils are lying flat, then position the zipper teeth under the right groove of the foot. Sew from the top edge and stitch into place until you’re parallel to the zipper stopper. Stitch in reverse and forward in place to make sure it’s held in place.

Now that you have completed your main stitches, we need to finish off the seams below your zipper. Pull the zipper all the way closed and place the right sides of your fabric together. Adjust the zipper tail ends so it is out of the way, then place your foot as close as possible to your stitched line, then sew an additional 2 inches.

The last step you’ll need to do to complete your invisible zipper is finishing off the seam. For this you’ll just need to remove the zipper foot and install your regular presser foot. Sew your fabrics together by following your previously stitched line, and voila! You just learned and completed a proper invisible zipper.

Regular machine foot

Take a moment to tack the ends of the zipper tape to the seam allowance to make it easier to pull your zipper.

If you’ve tried this for yourself, tag us on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or by the hashtag at #wonderfil. We would love to see your sewing projects and progress! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Easy Serger Blanket Stitch Tutorial

Here’s a super quick and easy tutorial on how to make a quick machine “blanket stitch” edging on your serger. A two-thread flatlock stitch and some water soluble stabilizer will produce a beautiful, hand finished look. It’s a great way to finish blankets or other projects with this incredibly fast and simple serger solution.

Let’s start by setting up the serger. You will need a serger that has the capability to do a 2 thread flatlock stitch. Most sergers are able to do this, so check your manual to set up your machine.

A bold thread will have the best effect for this stitch, so we’ll be using a 12wt variegated cotton called Fruitti in the needle. This thread has been double gassed, resulting in a very low lint finish, so the stitches will look clean and beautiful when it stitches out. Another option is 12wt Spagetti which is the same thread as Fruitti, but comes in solid colors.

You’ll need a 90/14 topstitch needle in the serger to accommodate the heavier thread.

In the loopers, we’ll be using this medium 50wt cotton thread called Konfetti in a colour that matches the blanket. The finer weight works well with the heavier Fruitti thread.

For the blanket, we’re choosing this cotton flannel which is warm and soft to the touch. You can choose to do a single layer, a double layer, or a double layer with batting in the middle. Be aware to follow fire safety regulations when choosing fabric for babies.

Before you begin, cut a length of water soluble stabilizer long enough to go around the edge of your blanket, with a width of about 3 inches. You can use pieces so you do not need one continuous length.

Set up the serger to do a 2 thread flatlock stitch, with a wide cutting width. Place a strip of the wash away stabilizer along the right edge of the blanket and stitch along the edge of the fabric. The stabilizer will lay on top of your project. Continue around the circumference of your blanket, making sure the knife of the serger is cutting off a small strip along the edge as you sew.

When you have finished going around all four edges, remove your work from the serger, leaving a tail to finish off.

Tug on the wash away stabilizer all the way around to pull the stitches to the back and leave a “blanket stitch”. Trim the stabilizer close to your stitching, taking care not to cut into your serger threads. Rinsing the finished project will remove the remaining water soluble stabilizer.

Weave the thread ends into your edging using a large eye needle. A drop of fray check will prevent them from unraveling later.

If your blanket is rectangular, you will go off the edge at each corner. After you have finished your piece, you will need to go back and weave in the serger threads at each corner to finish.

If you make the corners of your project a slow curve, you will not need to finish loose ends at each corner. In this case, begin your stitching line along one edge, not on a corner. When you come to the end, you will need to overlap your starting stitches, then slowly edge your way off the fabric, trying not to create a ‘point’. You will have only one set of loose threads to weave in.

And that is all there is to it! In minutes you will have a nicely finished blanket! This is perfect for making receiving blankets for babies, a simple blanket for yourself or your family, or quickly finishing the edges of a project off.

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Needle Punch Tutorial & Free Patterns!

Needle punch is a simple way you can easily and quickly create beautiful stitched patterns and designs. We’ll show you how to set up your needle punch tool, our recommended thread and materials, and walk you through simple tips on how you can use this technique to create different textures and stitches. We’ve even included a few FREE printable patterns below to help get you started on your next needle punch project!

Materials:

• Download one the free patterns by clicking here.

• Recommended thread: Eleganza™ #8 perle cotton thread: https://shopwonderfil.com/product-category/eleganza/

• Needle punch tool (we used one by Clover)

• Embroidery hoop (to fit the free patterns above, we used a 5.5” hoop)

• 100% cotton monk’s cloth with an even weave

• (optional) A light table to trace your pattern onto the fabric, we used one by Daylight

• Clear glue

Before you can begin needle punching, you’ll need to prepare your fabric. Download one of the patterns from the link above or select one of your own. You can trace this pattern onto your monk’s fabric using a light table or by holding it up against a window. Some patterns can also be transferred using an iron or with carbon paper and will come with instructions on how to do so.

We recommend using a 100% cotton monk’s cloth with an even weave as this will be the easiest to keep your stitches looking consistent and straight.

Once your pattern is traced, hoop the fabric tightly in an embroidery hoop. For the free patterns available above, we used a size 5.5” hoop. You can then proceed to load your needle punch tool with thread. Our recommendation is a #8 size perle cotton as this will offer enough friction in the fabric to hold, while still showing boldly. We used #8 Eleganza perle cotton as it has a very tight twist which prevents untwisting, and a low lint finish that allows it to pull easily through the fabric.

Your needle punch should come with a needle threader. Slide it through the tool from the base of the needle so that the threader is facing the top end of the punch. You can then slide the thread through the threader loop and pull it back through the punch, drawing the thread with it through to the base of the needle.

Inserting the needle threader.

Sliding the thread through the needle threader’s loop.

Drawing the needle threader back out, pulling the thread with it. Your needle punch is now threaded!

Leave a tail of a few inches of thread and slowly begin punching through the fabric, filling in the design. You’ll notice two sides to the fabric, one that sticks out with loops, and the backside which is shorter. You can choose to make either side your “right” side.

Front side.

Back side.

For reference, the side you do the punching from will be the “back side” of the fabric, while the opposite side will be the “front side”. When you’re finished filling in a section, trim away the thread and secure the back side with clear glue.

To create an optional fun texture, you can take a pair of scissors and cut the loops on the front side of the fabric, releasing them. You’ll end up with a soft and fuzzy texture that can be trimmed down around the edges of the design to keep the edges clean and crisp.

Cutting the loops.

The resulting texture after cutting the loops.

To change the texture and add a bit of contrast in the design, we’ll be flipping the hoop over and punching from the “front side” instead of the “back side”. Since these stitches will now be more visible, an option while you’re filling in the design is to move back and forth in a zig zag pattern. This creates an even satin stitch that mimics the shape of the leaf.

Once again, when you’re finished filling in a section, trim away the thread and apply clear glue to secure the stitches at the start and end of the thread.

Play with the side you punch from to create a variety of textures for your project! Continue these steps until your design is complete. Below is the front side of our hoop.

To finish your hoop, trim the fabric to the edge of the hoop. We’ll be leaving our design in the hoop to frame and hang it.

Experiment with the textures you can create using this fun and simple tool! This is a versatile way to efficiently fill in designs in by hand and get creative.

Feeling inspired? This needle punch is available from Clover. You can find Eleganza™ in a whopping 340 unique solid and variegated colours to play with. Find it in a local store near you at www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local or to order it online. Share your needle punch projects with us on social media using #wonderfil, we’d love to be inspired by you!

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5 Ways to Use Water Soluble Thread

Usually a thread is meant to hold things together, not disappear when exposed to water! However, water soluble thread has a lot of fantastic uses that you may not have thought of before. (Pro tip: don’t forget you can’t lick the end of this thread when threading a needle). Here’s a list of 5 great ways you can use water soluble thread so you can both improve your sewing and sew more efficiently!

This is Rinse ‘n Gone, and like its name sounds, it will actually melt and disappear when exposed to water. Remember: Do not lick the end of it to help thread your needle! We also recommend storing it in a sealed bag in a dry place as direct exposure to liquid can wreck your spool.

Basting quilts or clothing:
There’s a lot of times you might want to baste when sewing a project together. The beauty of using water soluble thread is that you don’t have to pull the basting stitches back out when you’re finished with them!

You can use it to baste your quilt top in place to keep it from shifting when you’re quilting it. Start by positioning the piece you want to quilt using pins, then using a hand sewing needle threaded with Rinse ‘n Gone, make big basting stitches across the project, removing the pins as each section is secured. Now you can quilt my project without needing to worrying about quilting around the pins. The basting can easily be removed by putting the quilt or project in the washing machine on a gentle cycle, or simply scrubbing out the thread with a wet toothbrush.

Use Rinse ‘n Gone to baste clothing pieces together. Sometimes a pattern will call for easing in sleeves or gathering fabric, and a basting stitch is perfect to do that temporarily before you stitch it down permanently. Like a quilt top, just give your project a wash in the machine when you’re finished, or take a damp toothbrush or sponge and gently brush it away. The thread will disappear like magic.

Trapunto:
Water soluble thread works great when securing your initial layer of batting when doing trapunto. First, draw your trapunto design with a washaway marker. Now place two layers of high loft batting under your design and stitch around your raised layer with Rinse ‘n Gone thread in the needle, and a bobbin thread in the bottom, such as DecoBob 80wt thread. Turn your work around and trim the batting away close to the stitch line.

Next, layer your piece with your regular batting and backing. Quilt around your design as desired with your chosen quilting thread, leaving the raised layers unquilted. When your work is complete, simply wash your project or spray with water and brush with a toothbrush to remove the Rinse ‘n Gone.

Slashed textured fabric:
Here’s an interesting texture you can give your fabric. Using three layers of fabric, with the top two rights sides facing up, and the bottom right side facing down, hand baste it all together with big stitches using Rinse ‘n Gone.

When it’s all secure, load your sewing machine with a permanent sewing thread and sew straight lines across one end of your fabric to the other, about a half inch apart or following the edge of your presser foot.

When you’re finished, take a pair of scissors and snip only the top layer of fabric between the lines of stitching. Wash your project and give the raw edges of the fabric a brush, resulting in this textured fabric you can use on anything from quilts to bags, to clothing and accessories.

Perfect appliqué:
Take two pieces of the fabric, one you want to appliqué with and the other a scrap piece that can be discarded later. Place the appliqué fabric right side down. Load your machine with Rinse ‘n Gone in the bobbin and a regular sewing thread in the top. I’ll be using DecoBob, an 80wt cottonized polyester thread, since it will allow my appliqué to lay flat and make my miters sharper. Trace your appliqué shape on the fabric and sew along the lines. You won’t need to backstitch at the beginning or end.

Once you’ve gone all the way around, make sure you trim the excess fabric close to the sewing line. Remember to snip around all curves and into corners so you can have sharp, mitered lines.

Now you’ll have a piece that will need to be turned right side out. Snip an X through the middle of your scrap fabric to make a turning hole, being careful not to cut the fabric on the other side.

Take a hot iron and make sure the steam setting is as high as it will go. Press your appliqué with steam to make the soluble thread disappear. If that doesn’t remove all of the water soluble thread, you can also scrub it away with a wet toothbrush. The remaining top thread can be pulled out and discarded.

Now pull the fabric pieces apart, discard the scrap fabric, and you have a perfectly turned piece of appliqué that can be sewn onto your project. Choose either a decorative stitch with a medium to thick thread if you want the thread to show, or a fine thread with a zigzag stitch if you want the thread to disappear.

Stitching together small pieces of wash away stabilizer:
Do you have lots of smaller pieces of wash away stabilizer that you want to use in your embroidery machine, but they won’t fit in the larger hoop? Rinse ‘n Gone is the perfect way to sew those smaller pieces of stabilizer together because it will wash away with the stabilizer when you’re finished the embroidery. You can choose to use this as a top thread and bobbin thread in your machine, or stitch it by hand.

Holding down a design in a large embroidery hoop:
Sometimes when doing a smaller design in a large embroidery hoop, your project will end up shifting. Adding some basting stitches with Rinse ‘n Gone will prevent your embroidery from moving while the machine is stitching, and you can easily wash or brush away the stitches once it’s completed. By preventing the layers from shifting, your embroidery designs will be much less likely to pucker, especially with small or highly detailed designs.

Embroidery design without basting with Rinse ‘n Gone.

Embroidery design with basting using Rinse ‘n Gone.

Embroidery design after Rinse ‘n Gone is washed out.

Let us know how you like to use wash away thread in the comments, or share a project you made using Rinse ‘n Gone! Inspired to add Rinse ‘n Gone to your sewing room? Find it in one of your local stores at www.shopwonderfil.com or to order online.

Introducing Eleganza Perle Cotton Thread

Perle cotton is one of those thread basics any hand stitcher can’t go without. So why not reach for the best? Eleganza is a gorgeous perle cotton thread that comes in an incredible 340 unique solid and variegated colours. With that kind of selection, you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing the colours for your next project.

One of the things that make Eleganza perle cotton unique is its tight twist. This 2 ply thread resists unravelling, making it easy and efficient to sew with, without worrying about tangling or untwisting. That’s not something anyone wants to think about while they’re focused on creating something beautiful. The thread has also undergone double gassing, which is a process where 80% of the thread lint is burnt off its surface. This process is repeated a second time, making this one of the cleanest and smoothest perle cottons on the market. You’ll have no trouble stitching with this thread through all kinds of fabrics and fibres.

200 of these shades are available in 100 solid and 100 variegated colours in the WonderFil collection. These little balls come in size #8 weight thread, the most popular thread weight for any kind of hand embellishment. They also come in 140 colours in the Sue Spargo collection. Designer, author, and teacher Sue Spargo has curated her own stunning collection of Eleganza threads, available in the Original and Primitive colour collections. You’ll find the #8 weight spools of Eleganza have double the amount of thread on them as the balls in the WonderFil collection.

You’ll also find these colours available in an additional #5 and #3 thread weights. #8 is marked by green spool tops, #5 is marked by purple, and #3 by blue. This makes it easy to tell which weight you’re using at a glance. These additional thread weights make it possible to create emphasis and texture, even when doing the same embellishment stitches. It truly opens up a whole new dimension of hand embroidery.

If you’re looking for the perfect needle to match these thread weights, Sue has made it incredibly simple. Sue Spargo brand needles are coloured to match the spool tops in her collection so you’ll know right away which needles pair with the thread size.

Eleganza is the perfect choice for any hand embroidery projects, big stitch hand quilting, sashiko, visible mending, and crafts. You can even use it in the machine for bobbin work and couching, or on the loopers of a serger for a beautiful decorative edging.

Inspired to stitch with Eleganza? Shop with Sue Spargo at www.suespargo.com, or find either collection in one of your local stores at www.shopwonderfil.com. And don’t forget to share what you make with it on social media using hashtag wonderfil. We’d love to be inspired by you!

5 Tips to Avoid Thread Breaks

It’s a problem every sewist can relate to! We’ve all been there, but how do you know what’s causing your threads to break? Here are 5 tips to quickly help identify and resolve this common sewing issue!

Tip #1: Needle size and type

As a general rule it is always an important routine to check your machine needles. Oftentimes a thread break problem occurs when you have the incorrect needle. Before you sew, make sure your needle is the correct size for the thread you’re sewing with in the project. In both American and European sizes, the smaller the number shown on the package, the smaller the needle. The same goes for larger numbers. Smaller needles are good for finer threads, such as 80wt, and larger needles are designed for heavier threads such as 12wt. For reference, medium thread like 40wt or 50wt will often use an 80/12 size needle.

You should also make sure you have the correct needle type for the fabric you are sewing. For instance, you would use a denim needle when sewing heavy denim fabric. Or a ball point needle with jersey fabric. All needle types serve a purpose, so be sure to research what you need to achieve optimal results!

It is good to note the importance of the proper needle as the size and type will have a huge impact on the success of your project. Using an incorrect needle could be the cause of skipped stitches and tension issues that will also result in thread breaks.

Tip #2: Bobbin thread

Another cause of thread breakage could be your bobbin thread. Some bobbin thread of a lesser quality will either leave lint, fluff, or have adhesive residue which can interfere with the machine’s functionality. You should check out the bobbin’s casing and surroundings as the thread could be caught, tangled or running improperly as a result of it. As a result, we always highly recommend using a bobbin that doesn’t have any glue or residue applied to it. Threads that have residues applied will feel slightly tacky to the touch. For example, side-less bobbins are held together by glue to keep them together.

If you wound the bobbin yourself, be careful not to overwind the bobbin. This can happen easily with finer bobbin threads as the machine’s self-stopping mechanism doesn’t always detect the finer thread right away. If you wind your own bobbin, we recommend stopping slightly before the edge of the bobbin to avoid this.

We always recommend using a finer bobbin thread, such as DecoBob 80wt, to achieve better tension results. Because the bottom thread is smaller, it will reduce the bulk in the fabric and also always give way to the top thread, meaning your threads won’t be fighting for tension in the machine.

Tip #3: Tension

This is always an important factor to consider when sewing. Thread breaks can happen if the tension is too tight on either the top or the bottom. We always recommend sewing a test strip on a scrap fabric to check the quality of your tension before starting your project. If you see the bobbin thread pulling through to the top, it means the top tension is too tight and should be loosened.

If you see the top thread pulling through to the bottom, it means the bobbin tension is too tight and the bobbin tension should be loosened. Every machine is different, as are factors such as the type and weight of thread you’re using, the fabric you’re using, the batting and stabilizer. With so many different considerations at play, it’s best to always sew a test piece and adjust your tension as needed.

Tip #4: Cross Wound or Stack Wound Thread

If you’ve ever taken a close look at your thread spools, you may have noticed there are two different ways the thread is wound onto the spool. Stack wound thread is when the thread is wound on the spool in a straight and even pattern. Cross wound thread is the more common of the two and will be wound in an angled pattern. If you are sewing with a stack wound spool, your thread will need to draw off the side of the spool. This is easily done by placing it on the vertical spool pin of your sewing machine. If you are sewing with a cross wound spool, then you will need to draw the thread from the top of the spool. You can do this by placing it on the horizontal spool pin of the machine. Placing the spool on the wrong pin will cause the thread to drag across the spool, which will cause tension problems and can result in thread breaks.

Tip #5: Accessories

If you’re sewing with a specialty thread, it’s best to consider how some sewing accessories can enhance your sewing experience. If you have a slippery thread that tends to pool around the base of your spool, we highly recommend using a Wonder Guard™. Wrap this thread guard around the spool to stop the slippery thread from sliding down around the base of the cone, which can get caught, tangled, and change the tension of your thread and cause thread breaks.

In addition to this, a Thread Tamer is also great idea for slippery threads or threads that curl, such as metallic thread. Drawing the thread through the multiple slots will help pull those curls out of a metallic thread and also give the thread a chance to relax before it enters the machine. This is a huge benefit to slippery threads and metallic threads that tend to have these problems.

We hope this helps you understand the causes of thread breaks and the ways you could prevent them! Tell us in the comments if you have a question about thread breaks. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive. We respect your information.

How to Do Big Stitch Hand Quilting

Big stitch hand quilting uses a simple running stitch and a heavier thread such as 12wt or 8wt thread. This is the perfect technique to add a personal touch to quilts, and those slight imperfections from doing hand stitching only adds to the home-made charm. This is a gorgeous way to give your quilted projects a textured, hand-made look.

Before starting you’ll need to take a look at the thread you’ll be using. One of our favourite choices is Eleganza, an 8wt Egyptian perle cotton thread that has a soft sheen to its matte finish. This thread is thick enough that it stands out more boldly against the fabric. One of the things that makes this thread an ideal choice is that it has been double gassed, resulting in a super low lint finish. It also has a very tight twist to prevent unravelling as you stitch.

If Eleganza is thicker than you wanted for your quilting, another option is Spagetti and Fruitti. These 12wt Egyptian cotton threads are thinner than Eleganza, but still thick enough that it stands out. Like Eleganza, they have both been double gassed for a very low lint finish, so your stitches will not only look beautiful, but the thread is very easy to pull through the fabric and fibres.

Finally, another option we’d like to suggest is Dazzle, an 8wt rayon thread with a single strand of metallic woven through. While we normally wouldn’t recommend a rayon thread to hand quilt with because it’s so slippery, because this thread has a strand of metallic in it, it has more friction to grip the fabric and stay in place.

These are only a few options for thread, but they give you an idea of the different types of threads available that can change the look of your hand quilting. Before starting, I’m going to peel a length of painter’s tape and place it along the line I want to do my quilting. This gives me an easy guide to follow so my quilting stays straight and doesn’t wobble. Because painter’s tape isn’t too sticky, I can peel it off when I’m done without leaving any residue.

If you have a particularly large quilt, using a quilting hoop to keep your quilt taut while quilting is preferable. However, since my piece is quite small, I’m going to go without one which is fine too. 

For any 8wt threads, you can use a chenille size 24 or a long darner size 1 hand needle, but any needle with a large enough eye to fit the thread will also work. To begin, cut a manageable length of thread, not too long that it will get tangled. Tie a knot on the opposite end from the needle.

Choose a position slightly before where you want your actual quilting to begin and poke the needle through to the batting, but not far enough that it goes through the backing.

Pull the thread all the way to the knot, and once it reaches the fabric, give it a sharp tug so that it goes through the fabric and gets buried behind it. You’re now ready to begin your stitching. You can decide how large you want your stitches to be, just try to keep your spacing consistent.

Poke your needle down the length of the stitch you want it to be, but don’t pull it all the way through. Continue loading up stitches along the length of your needle until you have a few on your needle, then you can pull your stitches through. This is the basis of the running stitch. It helps to keep your thumb in front to push the fabric closer to the needle so that you don’t end up with too big of a stitch.

Now if you happen to run out of thread or want to finish off your line of stitching, you’ll need to bury your thread. To do that, tie another knot close to the base of the fabric. It helps to put your finger on the knot before pulling the thread all the way through to keep the knot as close to the fabric as possible.

Now put your needle through the same hole, slide it through the batting and come up a little ways away, and pull the thread all the way through giving it a little tug to get the knot through. Now you just need to snip the thread and your knot will hide nicely behind the fabric.

That’s all there is to it! For comparison, we’ve done more hand quilting over here using Fruitti, the 12wt variegated cotton thread. You can see it’s quite a bit thinner, and how that variegated colour looks. Beside that is another section using Dazzle, the 8wt rayon and metallic thread. It’s the same weight as the Eleganza, but that strand of metallic gives it a lot of sparkle for a totally different effect. The rayon is also a lot shinier than cotton.

(left) Eleganza, (right) Dazzle

(bottom) Fruitti (top) Dazzle

You can create such a natural look by hand quilting, something that a machine can never achieve. It might be a little time consuming, but with a little patience, it’s totally worth it. Inspired to sew? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from.

5 Simple Sewing Tips for Your Sewing Room

Sometimes it’s those simple things that can make your sewing room run more efficiently. Here’s 5 easy time-saving solutions that everyone can keep in mind to improve their sewing, all while working smarter, not harder!

1. When you are cutting several of the same size blocks, place a piece of masking tape on the ruler along the exact measurement. This way you can easily find the measurement each time and make your cutting a lot more efficient.

2. (This applies if you don’t have a built in needle threader.) When threading your sewing machine needle, hold a piece of white fabric or batting behind the needle so you can see the hole better. This will help you see where the hole is and make it easier and faster to thread your needle.

3. Heavy weight threads like our 8wt Razzle or Dazzle can be hard to thread in your hand sewing needle. Here's a handy tip! Take a strand of finer thread, like an 80 or 60wt, and tuck it part way through the eye in a loop. Run the larger 8wt strand through this loop and pull it straight through. Threading a heavy thread has never been this easy!

4. If you have trouble sewing a straight line, try placing a piece of painters tape or removable masking tape on the line where you want to sew. This will act as a guide to position your fabric and make it easier to sew a straight line.

5. When cleaning off your cutting mat, try using a piece of scrap batting to wipe across the surface your mat. The batting will catch all the thread strands and fabric bits and will clean faster than trying to pick up each individual piece.

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How to Set up Your Embroidery Machine for the Best Results

Machine embroidery can be addictive because it’s so easy to sew gifts, personalize your home, and make your plain clothes into something totally unique. An embroidery machine is an expensive but worthwhile investment. We’re sharing a few of our best tips to make sure your embroidery designs look better, sew easier, and ensure you get the most out of your embroidery machine.

1. Basting with water soluble thread

You may have heard about water soluble thread, but did you know it could make a huge difference in your machine embroidery? We stitched out this design with two layers of stabilizer on the backside of the fabric. However, because the design has a lot of sharp points, it creates a lot of puckering around it.

Embroidery design without water soluble thread.

To stop this from happening, we’re going to stitch a circle of Rinse ‘n Gone water soluble thread through the fabric and stabilizer before stitching out the design. This holds the layers together much more tightly than the embroidery hoop will and stop the fabric and stabilizer from shifting.

Embroidery design with a ring of Rinse ‘n Gone water soluble thread stitched around the edge of the design.

Once the design is stitched out, the thread can be scrubbed out with a wet toothbrush if you don’t want to wash the whole embroidery. After a quick press, you can see how flat it looks in comparison to the embroidery design without the water soluble thread.

2. Using the best bobbin thread

Machine embroidery uses a lot of dense stitching in a small area, meaning your choice of bobbin thread will make a huge difference in how flat your embroidery design sits, as well as how much the bobbin thread will show through. We highly recommend using a finer bobbin thread, such as DecoBob 80wt, because the fine thread doesn’t add any extra bulk to the dense stitching and blends into the fabric better than a 40 or 50wt thread will. In the left part of this embroidery, we used a white 50wt bobbin thread. You can actually see the bobbin thread showing through the design. However below, we switched to a white DecoBob 80wt bobbin thread. Even though the thread is white, it can’t even be seen in the design.

Simply changing your thread can make a huge difference in the quality of your machine embroidery, but you can still take it one step further. In the left half of this embroidery we used a bobbin self-wound with DecoBob 80wt thread. On the right side, we used a pre-wound DecoBob bobbin. You can actually see how the left side has larger breaks in the embroidery while the right side lays flatter with tighter stitches. These pre-wound bobbins are wound perfectly evenly at the factory. This gives you a consistent machine tension that noticeably affects the quality of your machine embroidery.

To find out what bobbin size your machine takes, you can consult our Bobbin Guide by clicking here.

3. Apply a Wonder Guard™ for even tension and prevent unravelling

A Wonder Guard is this handy little thread guard that can be used on any spool of thread that requires a vertical feed. To apply it to your spool, wrap it around the spool snuggly but not tightly, with the feed of the thread coming from the top. This is a perfect tool for slippery threads that tend to pool around the base of the spool. It will also even the tension of the thread which will make a huge difference in the quality of your machine embroidery stitches.

If you’re embroidering with metallic threads that have a curl to it, also known as having a high memory, it will also help pull out those curls out before it even comes off the spool. And as an added bonus, the wonder guard will keep your threads tidy, clean, and even prevents it from drying out when you’re not sewing with it.

4. Using a Thread Tamer for perfect tension.

A Thread Tamer is a multi-purpose thread stand that offers a number of features to give you the best results in your stitching. If you’re sewing with a metallic thread that carries a lot memory, you can weave the thread through the extender slots to help pull out the tangles before the thread even reaches your machine.

At the same time, it’s tall enough to clear the top of the machine so it doesn’t drag along the side, changing the thread’s tension. It also allows the thread to relax before entering the machine, which is beneficial for finnicky threads or metallic threads. This combination of things will give your machine embroidery better tension, resulting in higher quality stitches.

Follow these tips for gorgeous, professional looking machine embroidery with any home embroidery machine!

Let us know in the comment section below if you have any machine embroidery tips you always follow, or share with us if these tips are things you’re already doing in your embroidery projects. Inspired to sew? Find WonderFil products in a store near you at shopwonderfil.com/shop-local.

Introducing Spagetti™ Heavy 12wt Thread

When your goal is to stand out, Spagetti™ knows how to be seen. This thick and juicy 12wt thread is actually the thickest thread you can safely fit through the eye of your machine needle. Some sewers love how boldly this thread stands out, while others might be a little intimidated by it. But we’re here to show you how to use this thread effectively to create color and texture you can’t ordinarily achieve with a regular thread.

Spagetti™ and its neighbour Fruitti™ are both 3ply, 12wt long staple Egyptian cotton threads that have been double gassed for a super low lint finish. Gassing is a term you may have come across in the sewing industry. It refers to a technique thread manufacturers use to burn off 80% of the lint from the surface of a thread. WonderFil actually repeats this process a second time, removing another 80% of the remaining 20% of the lint, resulting in an incredibly smooth, ultra low lint finish. If you take a close look at the thread, you’ll find very few fuzzies sticking out. This greatly reduces the lint build up in your machine, so you can spend more time sewing and less time cleaning it out, or fewer trips to the machine maintenance shop.

You can see in this side-by-side comparison how much thicker Spagetti™ looks beside a regular 50wt thread. While you wouldn’t use this thread for something like piecing, it’s the perfect choice for anything decorative that will show on top. Machine quilting with this thread will really make your quilting pop. And because the thread is so thick, it will completely change the look of your quilt top.

Or you can consider something like thread painting. Most sewers will use a 40wt thread to do this technique, but a 12wt thread sits a little higher on the fabric. You’ll be able to create a beautiful, raised texture simply by switching to this thread that can’t be achieved with thinner threads.

This thread is beautiful for any decorative top stitching, appliqué, or even sewing thicker materials like leather or upholstery, but what about for hand sewing? Big stitch hand quilting never looked better. It also makes for a beautiful sashiko thread, needle punch, or even for hand embroidering smaller details and designs. This 12wt thread is comparable in size to a single strand of embroidery floss.

There’s a lot of great techniques Spagetti™ can shine in, but we don’t recommend using it with itself in the bobbin. A thread this bulky in both the top and the bottom will likely cause a host of tension issues that will decrease your stitch quality.

So what should you use in the bobbin? Meet DecoBob™, an 80wt cottonized polyester. This little thread is incredibly small, but also surprisingly strong. While it’s important to use a fine bobbin thread in every application, it’s especially important when using a 12wt thread in the needle. This fine thread will greatly reduce tension problems because it always knows to give way to the top thread instead of fighting for tension in the machine. These two know how to work together for perfect, smooth stitching.

Of course, you’ll also need to choose a larger needle to accommodate this bulky thread. We recommend a 90/14 or 100/16 topstitch needle whenever using Spagetti™ because this needle has a larger eye. This gives the thread more room to move around and reduces the chance for the thread to shred or break.

Don’t be afraid to go bold with Spagetti™ and see how this thread can change the look of your projects! Inspired to sew with Spagetti™ and Fruitti™? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from.

6 Reasons to Always Use a DecoBob Pre-Wound Bobbin

Ever wondered why you should bother using a pre-wound bobbin when you could always wind your own? These handy sewing accessories are absolutely not just for the lazy; they can make a HUGE difference in your stitch quality! We’ll demonstrate first-hand why you should always keep these 80wt DecoBob pre-wound bobbins in your sewing room.

They’re our little secret to effortlessly better tension, flatter seams, a beautiful stitch quality, and a bobbin thread that never seems to run out. If that sounds incredible to you, the secret is this little bobbin.

1. They’re Basically Invisible

Being an 80wt thread, it’s incredibly fine. You can see how the thread blends into the fabric behind it. Since it’s so small, it basically disappears. However, since this is a polyester thread, it’s also incredibly strong and can be relied on to construct your quilts and projects.

DecoBob is called a cottonized polyester. This is a 100% polyester thread that has been treated so that it no longer carries a stretch and has more of a matte finish, helping it blend into the fabric so it can’t be seen. That’s a great feature for a bobbin thread as an imperfect tension will help the bobbin thread hide if it pokes through to the top.

2. They Last Forever

Because the thread is so fine, the bobbin can fit way more thread in it. They also come wound with a much higher density of thread from the factory, so you can sew for far longer before you need to interrupt your sewing to replace it with a fresh one. Depending on the density of your stitching, you could piece and quilt an entire bed quilt with only 2 to 3 bobbins.

3. They Are Wound Perfectly Evenly

DecoBob pre-wound bobbins come wound perfectly evenly from the factory. If you’ve ever wound your own bobbin, you can see it filling a clump on one side before flowing back to fill the other side.

This unevenly self-wound bobbin will actually change the tension on your machine. To demonstrate, we embroidered one half of this tear-shaped embroidery using a self-wound bobbin with the same DecoBob thread on the left, and on the right we used a DecoBob pre-wound bobbin. You can visibly see larger gaps on the self-wound side than on the right side, which lays flatter with a higher top stitch quality.

4. Super Flat Seams

You may have heard a common sewing myth that states to always use the same weight of thread on the bobbin as you are in the needle. We’re here to tell you this is completely untrue. A finer bobbin thread will always benefit your sewing no matter what size your top thread is, however this is especially true when using thicker top threads like a 12wt. 

To demonstrate, we pieced three small blocks. On the left we used a medium 50wt construction thread on the top and the bottom. In the middle we used a 50wt in the top and the 80wt DecoBob in the bottom. And on the right, we used 80wt DecoBob in both the top and bottom. You can see how much flatter the seams are with the finer weight thread used. Using a finer weight in the top and bobbin will make your piecing look more professional and make it easier to match patterns and line up quilt blocks accurately. All of this from simply changing your thread!

5. Free of Glues & Residues

If you take a close look at the DecoBob thread, you can see its basically free of any lint. But here’s a dirty little thread industry secret to look out for: even if your thread looks like it’s low on lint, it may actually have a glue or residue applied to the thread to stick the lint down, only giving the illusion that it’s low lint. This sticky residue will come off inside your machine as you’re sewing and is even more difficult to clean out than regular lint.

We promise all of our DecoBob pre-wound bobbins come 100% totally free of any glue or residue. You can count on a clean, quality thread that will leave your sewing machines healthy and happy.

A sideless bobbin with glue applied to hold it together.

6. Re-Use It or Recycle It

All DecoBob pre-wound bobbins are wound on plastic sided bobbins. Re-use these bobbins again, use it to take some hand stitching with you while you travel, or check to see if your local recycling depot will take them.

Tell us in the comments your experience using pre-wound bobbins! Let us know if you still have questions about DecoBob pre-wound bobbins, or tell us where you love to use them. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry these threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/.

Thread Talks: Thread Terminology Words You May Not Know

There’s a lot of different terms used in the sewing world, so what do they all mean? In this video, we break down the variety of terms used in the thread industry, what they stand for and why we use them. Get threaducated in our Thread Talks videos, become a savvy thread expert and expand your knowledge of the sewing industry!

Thread Weight:

The sewing industry uses thread weight to describe the thickness or thinness of a thread. For instance, a 100 weight thread will be super fine, while an 3 weight thread will be closer in thickness to yarn. While this term is used almost ubiquitously by sewing companies, there isn’t really a definitive system to measure it. Most manufacturers know how thick a 40 weight thread looks like and will use that as a reference point to base other thread weights on. However, since there is no definitive system to measure thread weight, you might find some minor variation between thread weights from different thread companies.

Tex:

Another way to measure thread thickness is by tex. This is a more technical way to measure thread as opposed to weight. It is defined by how many grams 1000m of that yarn weighs. So for example, if 1000m of a certain thread weighs 20 grams then it’s tex 20. Or if 1000m of the thread weighs 30 grams, then it’s tex 30. With tex, the higher the number, it usually results in a thicker thread. Whereas with weight, it’s defined by the higher the number, the thinner the thread. However, if you have a denser thread, or the thread is made from a heavier material such as steel wool, you might end up with a higher tex despite the strands not being a smaller diameter than a cotton thread with the same tex. This is why we use weight to measure most of our thread lines, with some exceptions.

Mercerization:

Mercerization is a standard process used on cotton yarn. You’ll notice that almost all cotton sewing thread is mercerized, but what exactly does that mean? Cotton yarn is mercerized by soaking hanks of it in a caustic soda that is pulled and stretched repeatedly between rods. This process loosens the fibres to help it absorb dye in the next stage of manufacturing. However as a result of this process, it also slightly increases the strength of the cotton and gives the yarn a silkier, more lustrous appearance. Natural raw cotton material is dull looking, however a mercerized cotton has a soft gloss to it.

Long Staple Egyptian Cotton (or Giza Cotton)

Cotton is made up of multiple fibres that is taken and spun together into strands to make thread. The best quality fibres are the longest fibres as these will create a significantly less linty thread. You can see this for yourself by taking longer strands of hair and twisting them, then doing the same with shorter strands of hair. The longer hair has fewer ends poking out than the shorter strands of hair. This is what the term “long staple cotton” is referring to.

WonderFil manufactures all of its cotton thread only from long staple cotton, one of the highest calibres of cotton fibre quality. This cotton can only be grown in moist, mild climates, a few of which can be found in the southern United States or the delta region of Egypt. Even in Egypt there is variation in climates. For instance, Giza cotton is an extra long staple Egyptian cotton grown in close proximity to the Nile river, a veritable oasis in the otherwise dry climate. Because of the Nile’s mineral rich water and the region’s warm, humid climate, it makes the perfect environment for the highest quality cotton to be grown. For example, Efina 60wt thread is manufactured from this extra long fibre to create a clean, ultra low lint thread that looks and feels gorgeous.

Gassing:

Gassing is a process some thread manufacturers do to their cotton threads to reduce its lint. The thread passes between two flames, removing about 80% of the lint from its surface. WonderFil actually repeats this process a second time, so the remaining 20% of the lint has another 80% removed. This double gassing in combination with the long staple Egyptian cotton its spun from results in an extremely low lint cotton thread.

Because gassing a thread adds cost to the manufacturing process, some companies choose instead to cover the thread with glue or residue to keep the cotton fibres lying flat and give the illusion that its low on lint. However this residue will still come off in the sewing machine and can often be even more difficult to clean out than lint. Knowing whether a thread has been gassed or not is a great reference to its quality. To learn more about gassing, don’t forget to check out our video that goes into detail about gassing thread.

Let us know if you still have questions about any other sewing industry terms we may have missed. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/.

Introducing Alison Glass Eleganza™ Perle Cotton

Good things do come in small packages. Introducing this stunning new collection by Alison Glass for WonderFil® threads. Your favourite #8 perle cotton Eleganza™ thread now comes in 48 brand new colors designed by Alison Glass to match her fabric collections. It’s truly a match made in heaven.

For those who can’t get enough, you can find these threads in four pack varieties: Stars, Sun,  Flora, and Fauna. Each pack includes 12 perle cotton balls each, with Stars containing 12 stunning variegated colors, and the other three with a beautiful variety of solid shades. With colors this delectable, we truly couldn’t resist all four packs.

But this thread isn’t just pretty to look at. Eleganza™ is a 100% long staple Egyptian perle cotton thread that has been double gassed, resulting in a beautifully smooth and lustrous finish that glides through all types of fabric and fibres. It also has a strong, tight twist and doesn’t like to unravel. That means you’ll be able to create tight, firm stitches that look and feel both gorgeous and professional.

So what can you use this thread for? This is a #8 size thread, which is ideal for all kinds of hand embellishment, big stitch hand quilting, visible mending, sashiko, and even couching and bobbin work on a sewing machine. It’s perfect for both beginner and experienced sewists. You can really showcase texture and color with this thread like no other.

We recommend a milliners size 1, long darner size 1, or a chenille size 24 hand sewing needle with this thread. That will ensure you don’t create too large of a hole in your fabric, nor will you end up with too small of a hole for the thread to comfortably fit through.

Alison Glass Stitch Club, Available May – November, 2020

We’re excited to announce a new 6 month stitch club program with Alison Glass! Each month will have its own stitch style theme (kantha, sashiko, embroidery, etc.) with projects that feature these gorgeous threads. Members will receive a mini magazine-style PDF each month that includes a new hand stitching project and tutorial, featured fiber artists, further reading and inspiration, tips, tools, and material suggestions, and other inspirational and fun content.

To learn more about Alison Glass + WonderFil Eleganza™ threads, or to join the stitch club, visit: https://alisonglass.com/product-category/stitch-club/

How to Successfully Sew With Heavy 12wt Threads

12wt thread is actually the thickest thread you can safely fit through the eye of your machine needle and can be absolutely stunning to use in any project. These bold stitches are perfect for eye catching designs, accents, and quilting that can really change the look of your sewing. However, since most sewing machines are calibrated for medium 50-40wt threads, sometimes you’ll need to make a few adjustments so you can sew with these thick threads.

You may not need to follow everything on our list to sew successfully with 12wt, in fact your thread will probably sew beautifully without much trouble. We’ve just compiled a list of helpful tips to help those who run into trouble, as well as easy adjustments to help your 12wt thread run through the machine smoothly.

Needles

The first and most important thing you’ll need to do is change the needle. If you’re using a 12wt thread in 100% cotton or rayon, we recommend a size 90/14 or 100/16 topstitch needle. If you’re using a specialty thread such as GlaMore™, a 12wt rayon that has a strand of metallic running through it, you can even use a 100/16 or 110/18 topstitch needle. Because of the metallic in the thread, having even more space in the eye of the needle for the thread to move around in will greatly reduce shredding and breakage problems.

We recommend using topstitch needles for heavier threads as they have a larger size eye and a deeper groove along the needle shaft. This helps the thread to sew more smoothly and reduce shredding.

An alternative to topstitch needles are super non-stick needles. If you’re sewing with 12wt thread through a layer of fusible, these needles will greatly reduce friction and help the thread glide through the material, which will also do a lot to prevent shredding and breakage issues.

Tension

Depending on your machine, you may also need to lower or increase the top tension slightly. Lowering the tension means to loosen it, and increasing the tension means to tighten it. It might be intuitive to lower the tension as the thread is thicker, and in some cases this will be true. However, we find that on other machines, you’ll actually need to tighten the tension for these thicker threads. The only way you’ll be able to tell which direction to go is to sew a test strip on a scrap piece of fabric.

You can tell if the tension is too tight if the bobbin thread is pulling through to the top. Alternatively, if you’ve loosened your tension too much, then your top thread will pull through to the bottom. A perfect stitch will have the top and bobbin threads nested in the center, between the fabric layers. You may also end up with a bird’s nest of thread on the bottom if the tension is set too tightly.

What you put in your bobbin will greatly impact your stitch quality and seam bulk. We always recommend pairing your 12wt top thread with a super fine bobbin thread. This is DecoBob™, an 80wt cottonized polyester thread that we recommend as your primary bobbin thread. You can see that this thread is a lot thinner than the 12wt. If you were to sew with 12wt in your bobbin as well as in the top, you’ll find that your seams will be very bulky and won’t look good. Your machine may also struggle to run both of these large threads, increasing the likelihood of shredding, and your stitch quality could also suffer.

Putting this thinner thread in the bobbin will help keep your seams flatter, reduce tension problems, and keep your stitch quality looking beautiful.

If do plan on using 12wt thread in the bobbin, such as for bobbin work, take extra precautions. All bobbin cases come calibrated for 40 – 60wt threads, so if you put a 12wt thread in there, the thread will be thicker than what the tensions are set for. It will be difficult to change the settings perfectly back to where they are set for medium weight threads, so we recommend purchasing an extra bobbin case where you can play with the tension settings.

You’ll want to loosen the tension slightly so the thread lays flat like its supposed to. Otherwise the stitches can look very tight, or you’ll pull the thread from the bottom to the top, or even pull the thread from the top to the bottom. Check out our video on changing bobbin case tensions to learn how to do this for yourself.

Stack Wound vs Cross Wound Thread

Check the direction your spool of thread is wound. All 12wt threads from WonderFil will look like this, which is referred to as cross wound thread. Other companies might wind their thread in a straight direction called stack wound thread. The general rule of thumb is that stack wound threads should go on your vertical spool pin, while cross wound threads should be used on the horizontal spool pin.

The reason for this is the direction the thread comes off the spool depending on how its wound. If you were to put the cross wound thread on the vertical pin, you can see that the thread drags coming off the side of spool. This adds an extra inconsistent tension to the thread, which will impact the stitch quality. When you place the same spool on the horizontal pin, you can see the thread draws from the top of the spool in a smooth motion with no extra pull.

Stitch Length

We suggest lengthening your stitch length to 2.5 – 3 to help reduce the density of the stitches. Because the thread is thicker, it will look dense with a regular stitch length. Increasing the stitch length will make it look more like a normal stitch. Keep in mind your normal stitch length is usually set at around 2.

Here’s some issues that might come up, and how to resolve them:

If you find the thread is shredding, it can be caused by a few different things. One reason could be the needle is too small. Too small of an eye, or the needle shaft not being thick enough, will cause a lot of friction on the thread which can lead to shredding and breakages.

A needle that is too small can also cause the thread to ball up and turn into a bird nest.

Another reason you might experience thread breaks could simply be that you’re sewing too fast. Slow the speed on your machine. This will also give the thread a chance to lay down smoothly in the stitches. Slowing down is especially important for decorative stitches because of the density of the thread.

Your top tension may also be too tight or too loose. If it is, this can lead to thread breaks and the bobbin pulling up through the fabric, or the top thread pulling under the fabric. Play with your top tension settings on a scrap fabric until you find the ideal setting for your machine. 

Keep in mind that not all of these problems will come up when sewing with 12wt threads. As every machine is different, you’ll find that in most cases, the thread will sew beautifully with minimal adjustments. This is just a comprehensive list of everything that could happen, and how to solve them in case they come up. 

What Kind of 12wt Threads Are There?

12wt threads can be used for all kinds of beautiful, bold stitching. It’s perfect for adding textural effects as you can see in this thread painting done with a 12wt Egyptian cotton called Spagetti™. Cotton gives you a beautiful matte finish paired with the natural look and texture of cotton. Because we used the thicker 12wt thread, you can see the thread stands out from the fabric, making it ideal for bold designs that you can touch.

You’ll also find 12wt threads in rayon, such as this 100% rayon thread called Accent™. Rayon is a smooth, soft, and glossy material with a lot of shine. We love using it for decorative designs and highlighting because of its light reflecting properties.

Some other fun 12wt specialty threads can be used, such as this rayon and metallic thread called GlaMore™. GlaMore™ has a strand of metallic running through it, giving it the gloss and soft finish of the rayon mixed with the eye-catching sparkle of metallic. These are the threads you want to make an impact with your stitching!

Consider using 12wt thread for any decorative machine stitching, bobbin work, couching, machine appliqué, machine quilting and big stitch hand quilting, or even run it through the loopers on your serger for decorative edging effects. These threads can give you a look you can’t achieve with regular medium weight threads, so don’t be afraid to experiment outside the thread box!

Have you used 12wt threads in your sewing machine? Let us know if you still have questions about these threads, or tell us where you love to use them. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry these threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/.

Rayon vs. Polyester – What’s the Difference?

Both rayon and polyester are an excellent choice depending on what you want to achieve in your project, but we’ll discuss when to choose one over the other as they both have their own unique qualities and benefits. We’ll discuss the finish, tactility, purpose, and additional factors to consider when sewing with each type.

WonderFil manufactures both rayon and polyester threads. We’ll be looking at the two with the most similar uses: Splendor™, a 40wt rayon, and Polyfast™, a 40wt trilobal polyester.

While rayon and polyester are used in many of the same techniques, they both have very different origins. Rayon is manufactured from wood pulp that is chemically dissolved and undergoes a multi-step process resulting in the soft, lustrous rayon fibres. Polyester on the other hand, is a synthetic material with long, stable fibres that gives it the strength it is best known for. It’s resistant to abrasion and many common household chemicals, including bleach, making it a reliable choice for almost any application.

Rayon is fairly universal in its appearance and finish, however polyester can come in many forms. You might come across terms such as “cottonized polyester”, “wooly poly”, “all-purpose polyester”, or “trilobal polyester”. While these are all polyester threads, they vary greatly from each other in terms of where they are used and how they appear. Trilobal polyester is the most comparable to rayon in appearance and use. Both materials are (usually) colourfast and safe to iron if it comes from a reputable manufacturer.

If you’d like to learn more about the different kinds of polyester thread out there, check out our other blog: Exploring Polyester Thread: Varieties, Differences, & Where to Use Them.

Let’s take a closer look at rayon. It has a natural gloss that carries across the stitching or embroidery. Whereas polyester has an artificial gloss where the light is more fractured in appearance.

Comparing their tactility, rayon is actually softer to the touch in comparison to polyester. This leaves your fabric more flexible if you were to densely stitch with it. Polyester is rougher to the touch compared to rayon, and leaves the fabric feeling stiffer when densely stitched.

So now that you’ve learned the characteristics of each thread, which thread material should you choose?

We don’t recommend using rayon if you require the project to endure abrasion, long periods of moisture or bleach/chemicals. This is because rayon is a material that weakens when exposed to moisture. Rayon will always make a beautiful impression wherever it’s sewn and is a popular choice for this reason. It’s a gorgeous choice when used for decorative purposes, such as appliqué or decorative quilting and not for holding quits together structurally, such as edge to edge quilting. Choose it for quilting small areas or appliqué on a bed quilt, or used in projects that won’t be subjected to a lot of washing and handling. For example, quilting wall-hung quilts or art quilts.

Polyester has resistance to bleach and can handle light bleaching. It can also handle abrasion, mildew, and most chemicals it encounters. However as it does have a tendency to feel less soft and smooth to the touch, and leaves fabric a little stiffer. This material also keeps its strength even when exposed to moisture and is a reliable thread to hold your projects together when used for construction. This makes it ideal for edge to edge quilting, piecing, or other structural purposes. You can also consider it if you plan on embroidery patches on a backpack or items exposed to the elements.

We hope this video helps you understand what to consider and create quality projects that will last! If you are unsure if a thread material will work for you, save your time and money by researching and being informed before you sew with it. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry these threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/.

Introducing InvisaFil™ Ultra Fine 100wt Cottonized Polyester Thread

Who knew a thread could get so small? Even though this thread is ever so little, it can make a huge impact in your projects. InvisaFil™ is fast becoming a favourite staple thread for English paper piecing, quilting, and needle turn appliqué, and has even been made into packs by Laundry Basket Quilts. Let’s take a look at what makes this thread so special.

You won’t find many threads on the market that are this thin. InvisaFil™ is a 100wt thread, which is incredibly fine. This is WonderFil’s solution to monopoly threads. You know, those plastic fishing wire type threads that come in clear or smoke. While those threads can hide in the fabric, they can still be seen under bright lights, and dense stitching done with them will leave your project feeling stiff and inflexible.

Quilting with monopoly

InvisaFil™ was created to negate these issues found in monopoly thread. Because the thread is so small, it not only hides incredibly well in the fabric, but it also doesn’t take up a whole lot of space in the fabric either. That means you can do a whole lot of dense stitching and micro quilting, and your fabric will still be soft and flexible.

It also comes in 60 different colors to better match your project. But you don’t need to worry about matching the thread too closely. InvisaFil™ in a neutral colour knows how to blend across a huge variety of shades. We used a light grey to quilt across this entire quilt, and as you can see, it blends across every color without a hitch.

Because it disappears so easily, this is the ideal thread for wherever you don’t want the thread to show. So you’ll just see the texture of your quilting, rather than the thread in the quilting. This also makes InvisaFil™ perfect for stitch in the ditch, because you won’t even see the thread if it falls out of the ditch. If you set your machine to a tiny zigzag stitch, it does an amazing job for invisible machine appliqué. You’ll need your glasses to even see the stitching!

InvisaFil™ works great on domestic sewing machines, midarms, longarms, and even embroidery machines. And in machine embroidery, this thread really loves to show off what it can do.

Delicate, highly detailed designs, monogramming, and small embroideries look even better when used with InvisaFil™ thread. This ultra-thin thread makes it possible to keep all the details in small or highly detailed designs that a regular 40wt embroidery thread won’t be able to. This includes lettering as the fine thread will keep edges looking sharp and crisp.

But InvisaFil™ isn’t just for machines, it’s also hugely popular for hand techniques such as hand appliqué or English paper piecing. As mentioned before, InvisaFil™ doesn’t take up a lot of space in the fabric, and it’s a master at hiding. Therefore, all your EPP pieces will sit tightly together without any thread showing between them. That means you can easily get away with a simple and quick whip stitch to do your EPP with.

The same rules apply with needle turned appliqué. Not only will your pieces sit flat and tidy, but you won’t even see the thread. Sometimes choosing the best tools for the technique is all you need for better results.

If you’re stitching with InvisaFil™ by hand, we recommend using a #11 or #12 sharps needle. If you’ll be sewing with it in the machine, you can use a 60/8, 70/10, or 80/12 machine needle. Inspired to sew with InvisaFil™? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from.