Comparing Hand Embroidery Thread Weights: 12wt, #8, #5, #3

When doing hand embroidery, there are a number of thread weights to choose from. We’ll show you the difference between a 12wt, #8, #5 and #3 thread and how they show up differently in your stitches so you can choose the right look for your project. Choosing a variety of weights is the perfect way to give your hand embroidered project a unique look with different textures.

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The most common size of hand embroidery perle cotton is a #8. If you’re just starting out or doing any general hand embroidery, this is the recommended thread weight. It shows off beautifully with all the different varieties of stitches, and the thread will pull easily through all kinds of fibres and fabrics. With this thread you will want to use a size 3 milliners needle. Our line of perle cottons is called Eleganza™ and comes in #8, #5 and #3 sizes with Sue Spargo. Let’s take a look at the other two sizes.

#5 is a little thicker than the #8 but still thinner than the #3. Many people prefer using this size over the #8 because they like how it stands out a bit more and adds a little more emphasis to the stitching. With this size thread, we recommend using a milliners size 1 needle.

The #3 is the thickest weight of Eleganza perle cotton and its size is comparable to yarn. While this thick thread might give some stitchers pause, all of the Eleganza line of threads go through a treatment called double gassing, which removes almost all the lint from its surface. This gives it a silky smooth finish that pulls much easier through the fabric while making your stitches look clean and tidy. It’s great for adding outlining and emphasis to any hand sewing project. We recommend a size 15 milliners needle with this thread.

Finally, we have these 12wt threads called Spagetti™ and Fruitti™. Both of these threads are a long staple Egyptian cotton that has also been double gassed for a super low lint finish so your stitches will look clean and beautiful. A 12wt thread is comparable to a single strand of embroidery floss like what you would get when you split the strands. This is perfect for any small or fine detail stitching, or if you’re stitching on a fabric with a higher thread count.

These are just a few stitches to show you the difference thread weight can make in hand embroidery. Experiment with them yourself and show us what you stitched by tagging us on Facebook or Instagram! Facebook @wonderfil or Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads or by the hashtag: #wonderfil.

How to Sew Lightweight or Sheer Fabrics (Organza, Tulle, Chiffon)

Lightweight or sheer fabrics such as organza, tulle and chiffon can often be tricky to sew with as they are slippery and don’t have a lot of stability. We’ll cover our best tips for sewing with these tricky fabrics problem-free, while achieving perfect results!

Before you even begin sewing, you’ll have to cut the fabric pieces out first. Because these fabrics can be so slippery, it’s very difficult to get a straight edge, even if you’re very careful. Should you find this is the case, you can place a sheet of tissue paper or wax paper under the fabric and pin them together using thin appliqué pins. These pins are less likely to cause snags or puckers in the fabric. Then go ahead with cutting. Because the paper has more friction on it than a cutting mat does, the fabric won’t slide around as much. The paper also acts as a stabilizer which will still help even if you’re cutting it out with scissors.

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You should also consider the thread that you’ll be sewing with. Because these fabrics are so light and sheer, you can see right through it, meaning your stitches will also be visible. We strongly recommend sewing with a lightweight thread called DecoBob™. This is an 80wt cottonized polyester that’s very strong, so you can rely on it if you’re sewing gowns or any kind of structural sewing. Because it’s so fine, it will hide in the fabric a lot more in comparison to a regular weight thread.

Sewing with sheer fabrics using a regular 50wt thread.

Sewing with sheer fabrics using DecoBob™ 80wt thread.

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For rolled hems or darts, you can use this even finer thread called InvisaFil™. This is a 100wt thread that’s even smaller than DecoBob™ and won’t take up a lot of space in the fabric. This allows your stitches to stay flat and won’t be visible through the sheer fabric.

The needle you use will also make a huge difference in the quality of your stitches. Switch to a sharps needle as these have a thin, sharp point that will easily pierce through fine fabrics. If you are sewing with DecoBob™ or InvisaFi™l, an 80/12 or 70/10 microtex needle will work just fine.

Leave the tissue or wax paper on while you sew. The extra layer will help stabilize the fabric as you sew so that it doesn’t get sucked down into the machine. You should also decrease the stitch length on your machine to at least 1.8. Once you’re finished sewing a seam, you can easily tear away the paper.

Keep in mind when pressing these lightweight fabrics that many of them prefer a lower heat setting. So don’t have your iron on high heat when pressing your seams open.

We hope these tips make it easier for you to sew with these lightweight fabrics! Let us know in the comment section what project you’ll be sewing, or share something you made using WonderFil threads! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.

Comparing 100wt vs 40wt vs 12wt for Quilting

Did you know you can really change the look of your quilting simply by your choice of thread? We’ll compare the weight of three different thicknesses of thread when used for quilting so you can see how dramatic the difference is! This is a great way to achieve a new look in your quilted projects. 

InvisaFil™ 100wt: Blends very easily into your fabric so it can’t be seen. Awesome for keeping your quilts flexible even with dense stitching and showing just the texture of the quilting and not the thread.

Ultima™ 40wt: Your standard weight quilting thread. A strong and versatile medium weight thread that shows just a bit, and not too much.

Accent™ 12wt: A lusciously thick thread that loves to show off. This bold choice was made to stand out and make your quilting look juicy.

Here is a piece of fabric with the batting and backing layers included like you would have on a regular quilt. Before beginning, we’ll load the machine with a DecoBob™ prewound bobbin. These come already wound with an 80wt thread called DecoBob, This is an excellent bobbin thread because not only is it super strong, but it’s also super fine. This will greatly reduce the bulk in the quilting and also give a better tension, which will result in a better stitch quality. It’s also going to make a huge difference when sewing with the 12wt thread when we get there.

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Let’s start with the 100wt thread. This thread is called InvisaFil™, and it’s a super fine 100wt cottonized polyester. This is perfect for blending into your fabric so it won’t be seen, making it ideal for showing the texture of your quilting without showing the thread. It’s also awesome for keeping your quilts soft and flexible even when doing dense stitching because the thread doesn’t take up a lot of space in the fabric.

Because it blends in so well, you can really just get away with just using a light grey for bright colours, darker grey for darker colours, or a beige or brown for warmer tones. Matching the colour perfectly makes it nigh invisible. However, a contrasting colour will still give you a thin stitch that shows a little. InvisaFil™ 100wt thread is your perfect choice for dense quilting or wherever you don’t want the thread to show up.

Matching colour

Contrasting colour

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Next let’s take a look at the 40wt thread. There are a ton of 40wt quilting threads on the market, but the one I’m using here is an interesting one. This is called Ultima™, and it’s actually a cotton wrapped poly. That means it has a strong polyester core that sews easily and reliable like a polyester thread, but it’s wrapped in cotton giving you the quilted look of cotton. This is actually one of the cleanest wrapped threads on the market, meaning it won’t give off a whole lot of lint.

You may already be familiar with how a 40wt thread looks when it’s stitched out. While it’s going to be more visible than the 100wt InvisaFil™, it still isn’t going to make a huge impact if you’re using basic colours or ones that match the fabric. Choosing a contrasting colour will stand out a lot more, however. This is going to be your standard, do-all thread for every type of quilting.

Matching colour

Contrasting colour

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For our last thread comparison, we’re pulling out this chunky 12wt. 12wt is actually the thickest size thread you can safely fit through the eye of your sewing machine needle, so you will also need to use a slightly larger needle. I’ll be using a 90/14 topstitch needle because it has a larger eye for the thread to move around in.

This thread is called Accent™ and it’s really all about going bold. It’s actually a 100% rayon thread, so if you want to do any edge-to-edge quilting with a 12wt thread, I would instead recommend a 12wt cotton instead like Spagetti™. Rayon tends to weaken when exposed to water, so this thread is great for adding accents and doing decorative elements, or for wall hanging quilts and art quilts. 

This is a truly beautiful thread because it has a soft lustrous shine to it that catches the light. It’s perfect for any decorative quilting or outlining because of how bold it is. Your quilting will really stand out. Choosing a matching colour adds a beautiful subtle textural effect, while contrasting colours will really pop.

Matching colour

Contrasting colour

Looking at all the weights side-by-side, you can really see what a difference your choice of thread will make in your quilting. I hope this helps give you a better idea of what choices are out there, and what thread to choose for your next quilting project!

If you use these threads, don’t forget to tag us on facebook @wonderfil or Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads or by the hashtag: #wonderfil to show us your quilting creations!

Exploring Polyester Thread: Varieties, Differences, & Where to Use Them

Have you ever noticed all the varieties of polyester thread on the market? While it all might be made from the same base material, polyester comes in all kinds of different treatments and finishes, giving them completely different uses and appearances. In this video we’ll go through a wide variety of polyester threads you’ll come across, as well as how you should use them and how they’ll look when stitched out.

Trilobal Polyester
Trilobal polyester is a gorgeous and shiny thread that loves to show off. The word “tri” in trilobal refers to the shape of the thread which is actually triangular in shape. The flat sides of the thread reflect light much better than a round thread does, making it a shinier thread that is meant to stand out.

Use trilobal polyester in the embroidery machine for gorgeous results. It’s also a popular quilting thread when you want your quilting to have a little pop of shine. Because this thread is made to stand out, it’s a great choice for outlining, thread painting, or appliquéing a design down, such as with a satin stitch.

WonderFil Trilobal Polyester Thread Lines:
- FabuLux™ 40wt (variegated & neon colors)
- Polyfast™ 40wt (solid colors)

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Monopoly or Monofilament Thread
This is a thread commonly used when you want to sew something without the thread showing. These threads usually come in clear or smoke and are semi-translucent to help them blend into the fabric. However due to the limited colour range of these threads, they can still be seen when sewn over contrasting patches in the fabric and under bright lights. They are also stiff and inflexible when sewn in the fabric, making it unideal for dense stitching, and are semi-reflective, showing up under bright lights. Many people use these threads for quilting, stitch in the ditch, appliqué, or couching.

WonderFil does not manufacture monopoly thread as we consider a lightweight cottonized polyester to perform the same techniques at a consistently higher quality.

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Cottonized Polyester
Cottonized polyester is particularly unique because it undergoes a special treatment to take out most of the shine from the thread. This treatment also removes the stretch from it, making it incredibly easy to sew with and making it ideal for piecing and quilting when stretch in the thread is unwanted. While it might be called a cottonized polyester, there is actually zero cotton in the thread. This 100% polyester material is simply called this due to its matte finish and lack of stretch, meaning it looks similar to and sews easily in the machine like a cotton does.

Finer cottonized polyester threads keep their strength even at such a small size, which does wonders for piecing, especially foundation paper piecing and English paper piecing as the thread takes up significantly less bulk in the fabric, allowing seams to lay incredibly flat. And because the thread carries more of a matte finish, it hides in the fabric very easily, blending into the colours behind it with ease. This makes it an ideal replacement for monopoly threads that have an inflexible plastic feel and can still be seen under bright lights.

Finer cottonized polyester threads are great for quilting when you just want the texture of the quilting to show and not the thread. It’s also perfect for stitch in the ditch, bobbin thread for any top weight thread, and can even be used in the embroidery machine with better results in digitized lace and highly detailed or shrunken designs. Cottonized polyester also comes in medium weights and is a hugely popular material for longarm and midarm quilting. This easy to sew thread is recommended for beginner quilters, or those that want a strong and reliable thread that can sew in multi-directions.

WonderFil Cottonized Polyester Thread Lines:
- InvisaFil™ 100wt
- DecoBob™ 80wt
- Master Quilter™ 40wt

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Wooly Poly
This fun thread is incredibly flexible, being able to stretch and shrink depending on if it’s relaxed or pulled taught. They’re designed to be used in the serger and its stretching properties make it universally adored for knits and stretch fabrics. Wooly poly thread is recommended for rolled hems, garments, dance wear, swim suits, fitness wear, napkins, and finishing the edges of stretch materials.

WonderFil Wooly Poly Thread Lines:
- SoftLoc™ tex 35

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Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread
Because polyester is such a strong and easy thread to sew with, it’s highly preferred by many sewists. However, what if you want to sew with the ease of a polyester thread, but prefer the look of cotton? Thread manufacturers have come up with thread that has a polyester core but is wrapped on the outside with cotton fibre. This hybrid thread combines both materials into an ideal sewing thread with the natural look and finish of cotton. These threads are most commonly used for quilting and general sewing, and are frequently used on longarm and midarm machines.

WonderFil Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread Lines:
- Ultima™ 40wt

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Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester
An enhanced multi-filament polyester is designed for ultra-strength, best used for heavy-duty sewing on thicker materials such as leather, pleather, vinyl, cork, and upholstery fabrics. You’ll want to choose this thread when you want to give your projects more durability, such as when sewing wallets, bags, purses, or home décor. In a thicker weight, it also provides a beautiful decorative stitch on your projects.

For best results, we recommend pairing any weight of an enhanced multi-filament polyester on the top with a 60wt of the same thread in the bobbin. Because this thread is so incredibly strong, it should be used with itself top and bottom, with the lighter 60wt in the bottom to help seams lay flatter and promote better machine tension for higher quality stitches.

WonderFil Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester Thread Lines:
- HomeDec™ 30wt, 40wt, 60wt

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All-Purpose Polyester
This is the most generic and one of the most commonly found polyesters. It isn’t made to be used to show off, but rather behind the scenes in constructing garments, dresses and wedding gowns, and in sergers. This thread carries a little bit of stretch to it, which is great for clothing, as it has a little more give in the seams. No one wants to hear the dreaded “pop-popping” of stitches being snapped out. An all-purpose polyester tends to be lower in cost, versatile, and can be used for any general sewing.

WonderFil All-Purpose Polyester Thread Lines:
- Designer™ 40wt

Tell us how you like to use polyester threads in your own projects, or share something you made with us using WonderFil threads! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.

How to Sew Heavy Specialty Fabrics (Leather, Vinyl, Cork)

If you’re working on a project that requires a heavy material such as pleather, vinyl, or cork, don’t fret. While these materials might seem a little intimidating if you don’t have a lot of experience sewing with them, they only require a few simple adjustments. Simply using the right needle, thread, and understanding the material is all it takes to sew with these fabrics and easily as any other!

The tools you sew with can make a big difference. Consider swapping out your regular needle for a super non-stick universal needle. These needles have a coating on them that glide through the material and is especially useful if you have a tacky stabilizer underneath. If you’re sewing through a particularly heavy pleather or vinyl material, you can also switch to a leather needle. Leather needles are designed for piercing through these particularly resistant materials.

You can also change your presser foot for a non-stick or Teflon presser foot when sewing on pleather or vinyl. These materials can stick to the bottom of a regular presser foot, which impacts your stitch quality. These non-stick feet have a super slick surface that prevents that from happening.

Pictured: Non-stick sewing foot

If you don’t have a non-stick presser foot or they aren’t available for your machine model, you can also use a walking foot. These feet are designed to provide a second set of feed dogs from the top of the fabric, which helps push these specialty materials through.

Pictured: Walking foot

The thread that you sew with is also important to think about. Because cork, pleather and vinyl are much thicker, you’ll want to use a stronger thread to keep it together. Especially if the project you have in mind will require some durability. 

HomeDec™ is an enhanced polyester thread designed for extra strength. It comes in three weights: 30wt, 40wt, and 60wt. Because this thread is so strong, we don’t recommend using a normal bobbin thread with it. Always use the 60wt HomeDec™ in the bobbin with itself. The slightly lighter weight thread will help reduce the seam bulk, which is especially useful when dealing with thicker materials.

On your sewing machine, consider increasing the stitch length slightly. With pleather, vinyl, and cork, you’ll be piercing the material with permanent holes. Having the stitch length too low means the holes will be close together, causing damage to the material and compromise its durability. Since you’ll be sewing with an enhanced strength thread like HomeDec, the thread will easily compensate for holding together your seams even with the longer stitch length.

Because holes pierced through these materials are permanent, you won’t be able to use pins without leaving ugly holes behind. You can instead hold your pieces together using wonder clips. These will pinch your material together without needing to put holes in them.

But what about if you need to clip something that isn’t close to the edge, such as appliqué? Unfortunately, many pleather and vinyl materials will melt even on very low heat, making it impossible to use an iron-on appliqué. Take some scotch tape and tape over the appliqué piece so it doesn’t shift. You can then stitch through the tape and around the appliqué with a straight or decorative stitch to hold it down permanently. Afterwards pull away the bits of tape to clean it up.

Since you can’t use an iron on many pleather and vinyls, we recommend using a seam roller to help press your seams. This tool is a must for any material that can’t be ironed and is much more effective than simply finger pressing open a seam.

We hope these tips make it easier for you to sew with these heavier specialty fabrics! Let us know on on social media what project you’ll be sewing with pleather, vinyl, or cork. Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us!

Introducing Konfetti 50wt Double Gassed Long Staple Egyptian Cotton Thread

There’s nothing like a fundamental medium weight cotton thread, your go-to choice for just about everything. But there are a lot of intricacies you may not think about when reaching the spool. Let’s take a look at some of the industry terms we use when talking about this standard cotton thread.

This is Konfetti™ and Tutti™, two thread lines by WonderFil that are spun from a double gassed long staple Egyptian cotton material into an 50wt thread. But what does all of that even mean? Let’s break it down so we know what we’re looking at.

Cotton isn’t just cotton. There’s a whole lot of varieties out there with varying qualities associated with them. While your local dollar store might sell a functionable cotton thread, take a closer look. Some thread manufacturers cut corners to bring the price down, so your cotton thread might have a case of bed head. And by that we mean, it’s gonna be linty. All that lint is going to come out when it’s passing through your sewing machine, meaning you’re going to have to spend more time cleaning it out and maintaining it.

Photo by crazybydesign.blogspot.com

But it isn’t just lint you need to worry about. Some thread manufacturers will want to give the thread the illusion of being less linty without actually doing anything to reduce the lint in the thread. They can do this by applying a layer of glue to the thread which holds all the lint down. You might be able to actually feel the glue if you touch the thread and it feels slightly tacky. This is a worse situation than just having a linty thread because that glue or residue can also come off in your machine, which is even more difficult to clean out than regular lint.

So what can a manufacturer actually do to reduce the lint on a thread? We call that gassing. Gassing is a process where we pass the thread between a flame which burns off 80% of the lint. WonderFil actually repeats this a second time, so the remaining 20% of the lint has another 80% of the lint removed. The result is an incredibly smooth thread with one of the lowest lint finishes on the sewing market. The proof is in the picture.

Pictured: close up of Konfetti™ thread

Another component to look at is the staple of the cotton. This is an indication of the quality of the cotton fibres. The longer the fibres, the higher quality the cotton. Konfetti™ and Tutti™ are made with a long staple Egyptian cotton, meaning it’s a high quality fibre. Think of it this way, if you were you twist together a lock of long hair, the longer the strands of hair, the fewer strands that will stick out. But twisting together hair made up of a lot of short strands of hair will cause a lot of strands to stick out. The same concept applies when making a strand of thread. So the longer the fibre, or staple, of the cotton, the less lint you’ll have on the thread.

So whether you’re quilting, longarming, making cotton lace, or getting your creative juices flowing with some thread painting, these threads won’t let you down. Afterall, there’s no sense in spending big bucks on a sewing machine and then feeding it linty thread. Take care of your machine and let your projects shine with a quality thread line!

Let us know if you used Konfetti™ or Tutt™i thread in one of your projects! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us!

Successfully Sew with Fine 80-100wt Threads

Have you ever heard about 80 and 100wt thread? These ultra-fine threads are totally game changers when it comes to piecing, appliqué, quilting, and even as a bobbin thread. However, since most sewing machines are calibrated for medium weight thread, such as a 40 or 50wt, sometimes you may need to make some minor adjustments to your machine when sewing with this thread.

You probably won’t need to follow everything on our list to sew with 80 and 100wt thread. Most of the time these threads will sew beautifully without any trouble. However not all sewing machines are made alike, so what may work on one machine will need a setting adjustment on another. This is a list of suggestions and what issues can come up when sewing with 80 and 100wt thread, so you can sew with beautiful results.

Let’s take a closer look at these 80 and 100wt threads in comparison to a regular 50wt thread. You can see that they’re much finer, however WonderFil manufactures these threads from a cottonized polyester. This means the threads are strong and have the stretch removed from them, making them as easy to sew with as cotton thread does in the machine. They also take on more of a matte finish so they hide in the fabric a lot better.

We always recommend a needle size of 70/10 or 80/12 when working with these threads. A bigger needle will punch a hole that’s too large for the thread, so the thread will be sitting in a hole that’s too large for it to fill, resulting in an ugly stitch. The thread will also move around more in the larger eye, so a smaller eye will give you more control of the thread.

Choose a needle depending on the technique you’ll be using, or the fabric choice. For most general sewing, a universal needle works just fine. If you’re quilting, opt for a quilting needle. Or if you’re sewing with fusibles, choose a super non-stick needle, as these needles will help the thread glide through the sticky material and reduce friction.

You won’t normally need to adjust your tension with these threads and can often leave your machine on its regular tension settings. However, if you find that your bobbin thread is pulling to the top, that means you’ll need to loosen your top tension. If your top thread is pulling to the bottom, it means the bottom tension is too tight. Always sew a test piece on a scrap piece before sewing on your actual project.

Using a needle that’s too large for the thread will result in ugly holes that the thread won’t fill.

If your bobbin thread is pulling through to the top, you’ll need to loosen the top tension. If the top thread is pulling through to the bottom, you’ll need to loosen the bobbin tension.

Consider your bobbin thread when sewing with super fine threads. We recommend DecoBob™, an 80wt cottonized polyester, as your ideal bobbin thread, due to the fact that it greatly reduces tension problems and helps seams lay flatter since the thread doesn’t take up a lot of space. While we recommend DecoBob in the bobbin with any top thread, this is especially important if you’re using a super fine thread in the top. Using a much thicker thread in the bobbin can lead to bulky seams, tension problems, and a poor stitch quality.

There are some instances where it’s okay to use 100wt both in the top and bobbin. This is InvisaFil™, a 100wt cottonized polyester thread, and it’s just a little finer than DecoBob. Because it’s thinner, it won’t be quite as strong as DecoBob, but that’s okay if you’re stitching something decorative like a machine embroidery design. For anything that will require more utility, for example free motion quilting using InvisaFil™ in the top, then we suggest using DecoBob™ in the bobbin since your quilting will hold up better.

When winding these threads on a bobbin, try to go slower if you can. Because these threads are so fine and light, they tend to fly away a little and can cause tension issues when sewing. If you can, choose bobbins that come pre-wound with DecoBob™. These are available in standard sizes class 15, size L, and size M. They always come perfectly wound at the factory and fit more thread than when you wind a bobbin yourself, so you’ll have the benefit of a long-lasting bobbin that always has perfectly consistent tension.

If you are sewing anything with a single stitch, we recommend using a single stitch plate on your machine. Single stitch plates have just one little hole in the middle and is not made for any side to side stitching. This will give you more control over your thread because it will only be directed through this hole.

Single stitch plate.

Side-to-side stitching plate.

A thread plate made for decorative stitches, or any side to side stitching, will allow the thread to move around more, so the backside of your stitching can sometimes turn out not looking as nice. This can be true for any thread but is more noticeable with finer threads. This is especially important if you’re doing machine embroidery because of the speed it moves at. Single stitch plates don’t always come with a machine but can be purchased separately. These are just as easy to change and replace as a needle.

When setting the stitch length on your machine, the number displayed is in units of millimeters. So, if your stitch length is set at 2, it means you’ll have a 2 millimeter stitch length. When working with these super fine threads, we recommend you drop the stitch length down to 1.8, especially if you’re doing foundation paper piecing. Because the thread is smaller, a shorter stitch length will help a great deal for making strong, firm stitches. You’ll notice the difference with foundation paper piecing as pulling the paper out won’t distort your stitching as much as it would if you had a regular stitch length.

DecoBob™ and InvisaFil™ both come on cross-wound spools. Cross-wound refers to the direction the thread is wound in, in this case you can see they are wound around the spool at an angle. Cross-wound threads should always go on your machine on the horizontal spool pin as the thread draws best as it is pulled from the direction at the top of the spool.

If you were to put a cross-wound spool on your vertical spool pin, you can see the thread now draws from the side of the spool. But because the thread is cross-wound, it creates an extra drag as it draws, which will give you tension changes and affect the quality of your stitch. Only stack wound threads should be placed on the vertical spool pin, which is when the thread is wound straight across.

Here’s some issues that might come up, and how to resolve them. 

If you find the thread is shredding or breaking, it can be caused by a few different things. If you’re already using the correct size needle, think about when you last changed it. Most regular needles need to be changed after 8 hours of sewing. A dull needle will not pierce correctly and will need to be replaced.

A needle that has a burr on it can also cause thread breaks. You can also check that the needle is pushed in all the way as otherwise, it will be too long and caused skipped stitches or thread breaks. A bent needle can also knock out the timing on your machine as the bobbin won’t grab the top thread properly and miss. This will also result in skipped stitches.

Another reason you might experience thread breaks could simply be that you’re sewing too fast. Slow the speed on your machine. If you continue to experience thread breaks, play with your tension settings and check your needle for any of the issues we just mentioned.

Because DecoBob™ is polyester, it’s a very strong thread that is actually stronger than a 60wt cotton. This is why we recommend it as your go-to utility piecing and bobbin thread. As the thread is much finer, it reduces tension problems and makes piecing look flatter, more professional, and makes it easier to line up your patterns.

InvisaFil™ is our solution to monopoly invisible threads. You know, that fishing wire thread that’s often a pain to sew with. InvisaFil™ is WonderFil’s finest thread line at 100wt, and because it’s so thin, it brings in a lot of other benefits that monopoly invisible thread won’t.

Because it’s so thin, it makes appliqué lay super flat. The thread also just disappears into the fabric, which is great for any application where you don’t want the thread to show. Apart from appliqué, it’s also amazing for stitch in the ditch where if you fall off your path, you won’t even see it. And also for any quilting where you need a thread to blend across multiple colours. On this quilt, we used a light grey InvisaFil™ colour to quilt the entire piece, but it just blends into every colour.

You can also use DecoBob™ and InvisaFil™ for machine embroidery, and you’ll find that these threads make a noticeable difference. We embroidered the same lace pattern using a 50wt thread and then again with DecoBob™ 80wt. Because the thread takes up less space, you’ll see that the pattern is less thick and more visible when using DecoBob.

InvisaFil is also fantastic for any smaller, detailed embroidery. You can see the difference when using a 40wt embroidery thread, then how much more detail you can keep at a much smaller scale when using 100wt InvisaFil™. It’s also fantastic for any embroidered lettering as the thread is able to give you straight, crisp edges that can’t be achieved with 40wt thread.

Have you used 80 or 100wt threads in your sewing machine? If you want to share how you used DecoBob™ or InvisaFil™ in your projects, let us know on social media! Message us on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.

How to Sew with Stretch Fabric

Stretch fabrics are the most commonly used for sewing garments as they are comfortable and move with your body. However, because of their stretch, they can be troublesome if you’re inexperienced sewing with them. We’ll cover our favourite tips and tools on making sewing with stretch fabrics a breeze.

Before you even begin sewing, get yourself acquainted with the fabric you’re using. There’s a huge variety of stretch fabrics out there, and they can be made from cotton, spandex, fleece, or likely a mix of materials. Touch the material and see if pulling in one direction gives way less than the other direction. Keep this in mind when cutting your pattern and deciding what direction you want to have more stretch. A 4-way stretch fabric will stretch the same in every direction.

We always recommend washing the fabric before doing anything with it to prevent it from shrinking later.

When laying out your pattern, try to keep your pins within the seam allowance to prevent leaving obvious holes in the fabric. Some stretch fabrics will be more prone to this than others. Be careful when cutting out your pattern pieces and avoid stretching the fabric as you cut.

A knitted jersey fabric will often curl on the edges. To flatten it, you can use a starch spray and press it.

When you’re ready to begin sewing, you want to make sure you’re choosing the best needle and thread for the job. If you’re sewing in a regular domestic machine, choose a polyester thread designed for clothing construction. We recommend this 40wt thread called Designer™. Not only is it strong, but it carries a small amount of stretch, making it ideal for stretchy fabrics and garment construction. Don’t go for cotton threads as they won’t stretch enough, meaning they are more prone to breaking when the fabric is pulled.

Recommended construction thread is Designer™ 40wt all-purpose poly: https://shopwonderfil.com/product-category/designer/

For your needle, choose a ballpoint needle which has a rounded tip which helps part away the strands of the fabric. Because stretch fabrics have flex to it, this helps the needle glide through the fabric instead of punching its way through like with other fabrics. This avoids skipped stitches and damaging the fabric while you sew.

If your fabric is lightweight or tightly woven, you can also choose a stretch needle. The tip is more finely pointed, helping it slip between the weave of the fabric and also avoiding skipped stitches and damaging the more delicate fabric.

Another option is a twin needle. These are perfect for sewing hems and giving your project a professional look.

We recommend using the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine as it allows the fabric to stretch and retract with the thread. The twin needle will do two rows of zigzag stitching, offering a more secure stitch with a professional finish.

 You can increase the stitch length slightly to a 2.5 to 3mm setting. The longer stitch makes it easier for the fabric to stretch. Remember to sew slowly and avoid pushing or pulling the fabric as it’s going through the machine to avoid distorting your pattern. If you find the fabric is having difficulty feeding through, you can lay a piece of tissue paper under the fabric for additional friction. The tissue paper can easily be torn away afterwards.

If you own a serger, the cover stitch will give you the best results. Not only can it cover the raw edges of your fabric, it allows the fabric to retain a high level of stretch. Pairing a twin needle with the cover stitch on the serger will give you a beautiful and secure professional stitch that is perfect for finishing a rolled hem on sleeves, pants, or collars. 

If you use a wooly poly thread on the lower chain looper, your fabric will stay very elastic and soft against your skin. We used SoftLoc™, a tex 35 wooly poly thread that has a low lint finish and is incredibly soft. The best part is, it is not only safe to iron (even on high heat) but comes in 60 colors to best match your project. It is recommended for use on medium to heavy fabrics and is durable and colorfast.

A wooly poly thread like SoftLoc™ should only be used in the serger loopers and not in the needle. A regular serger thread like Designer™ should be used in the needle with it. This is ideal for all stretchy fabrics, especially those with a lot of stretch, as the thread will easily stretch along with it.

If you’re looking for a finer finish, SoftLoc™ is our recommended thread for rolled hems. A rolled hem with SoftLoc™ will create a soft and fine edge with no threads poking through.

Our recommended thread for rolled hems and upper and lower serger loopers is SoftLoc™ tex 35 wooly poly: https://shopwonderfil.com/product-category/softloc/

We hope these tips make it easier for you to sew with stretchy fabrics! If you learned anything new from this video, or if you used any of these threads in your projects, let us know on social media! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.

Introducing DecoBob 80wt Cottonized Poly Thread

This thread line has been around for some time and it’s been making waves in the sewing community. Designers Violet Craft, Sue Daley, and Laundry Basket Quilts have even made their own packs to include it. So, what’s the fuss about? Let’s take a closer look at how this thread can visibly improve your projects and its unique properties.

This thread is veeeeery fine, 80wt fine to be exact. As the rule goes, the higher the thread weight number, the thinner the thread. So an 80wt thread is actually quite small. But don’t worry, this little ant knows how to hold its own. Giving the thread a tug will show you that this little thread is surprisingly strong for its size! This is because it’s created using cottonized polyester.

Don’t let this name fool you, a cottonized polyester is actually 100% polyester, which is well known as a strong material to make thread from. But when it’s cottonized, it undergoes a treatment where all the stretch and shine is taken out of it, allowing it to not only sew really easily through your machine, but it also hides in the fabric a lot better. This matte finish in addition to its small size really helps make it blend in. And because it’s really strong, you have the ultimate bobbin thread. So even if your bobbin pulls through to the top, you don’t have to worry about it showing up.

WonderFil puts this thread on all its prewound bobbins because of these ideal properties. There’s a lot of really great reasons to use a prewound bobbin, so don’t forget to check that out in our other video, “6 Reasons to ALWAYS Use a DecoBob Prewound Bobbin”.

But it’s not only great in the bobbin, you’ll want to use DecoBob in the needle to improve a variety of techniques. Even something as simple as piecing.

Pretty much every sewer is going to piece a project at some point, but you can improve your results simply by changing the thread to use DecoBob in the top and bobbin. Because the thread is so fine, it allows the seams to sit flatter and tighter, which in turn makes it easier to match your patterns and line up your project pieces. It will also look and feel noticeably flatter. And if you’re piecing something with a lot of small, intricate pieces (we’re looking at you, Courthouse Step), this thread will make a huge impact on allowing the fabric to sit flatter. It’s amazing how much space the thread will take up in the fabric, and it shows!

Alison Glass + Giucy Giuce Mini Series Courthouse Step Block

This thread isn’t just limited to sewing machines. DecoBob makes a gorgeous machine embroidered lace. Because the thread is so fine, you can show off all those pretty little details found in lace designs. The lace will be additionally extra soft and supple to the touch.

You can find DecoBob in 36 colours. If you’re sewing with it by hand, we recommend using a #10 or #11 sharps needle, or a #9 or #11 short darner needle. In the machine we recommend using a 70/10, 80/12 microtex needle, a 75/11 or 80/12 quilting needle, an 80/12 topstitch needle, or a size 16 longarm needle.

Let us know if you used DecoBob thread in one of your projects! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.

Visible Mending on Denim with a Sashiko Stitch

Have your jeans sprouted a new hole? While distressed denim might be in, you can still salvage a beautiful aesthetic using visible mending. This is a gorgeous way to repair a hole in a piece of clothing and refresh your wardrobe, turning ugly holes into something beautiful and intentional.

Materials:

-       A scrap piece of denim or other heavy fabric large enough to completely cover the hole you are patching, with at least 3 inches to spare on each side.
-       A thick hand embellishing thread. We will be using #8 Eleganza perle cotton thread as it stands out beautifully and is ideal for any hand embellishment.
-       A hand sewing needle that will fit your thread. We recommend using a sashiko needle as it has an eye large enough for the heavier thread, and also is much longer, making it easy to make a lot of stitches at once.  You can also use a long embroidery needle, such as a long darner, as another alternative.
-       We also recommend using a thimble while doing this technique. Because of the number of stitches we have to make it will allow you to stitch more effectively and keep your finger from bruising.

To begin, turn the jeans inside out and find the hole you want to repair. Then you’ll want to trim the excess thread around the hole to clean it up.

Once the edges of the hole are trimmed and straight, place your denim scrap over the hole. Ensure that you have at least 3 inches of extra fabric around each side of the hole and pin it in place.

Now turn your jeans back right side out. Be careful not to get caught up on any pins. You’ll actually be able to see from the right side where you’ve placed the pins around the edge of the scrap denim, so you can use this as a guide to know where not to stitch outside of the area.

Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end of your thread. You can hide your knot by starting between the two layers of fabric.

Depending on what design you may want or your sewing experience, you can just do straight lines, curved, or something else funky if desired. We are going to keep it simple and just do a simple straight running stitch.

Try to keep your stitches even, but if it is not perfect that is okay because you will still achieve a hand done look. Continue doing these running stitches along the entire length of the hole, row by row. Ensure that you are stitching well past the edges of the scrap and onto the jeans themselves to ensure the scrap will be secured. When you are done it will look something like this:

When you are finished do not forget to tie off the thread on the wrong side of the fabric.

With this incredibly simple technique you can save your favorite pair of jeans. You can experiment with different materials and scrap fabrics for a totally unique look you can make your own!

We hope that you enjoyed making this project! Everything is open to interpretation and we would love to see how yours turned out. Tag us on Facebook @wonderfil, Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads, or using the hashtag #wonderfil. Happy crafting!

6 Ways to Use 8wt Thread

Depending on who you ask, 8wt threads are either beautiful, bold and dazzling, or intimidating without any obvious uses besides hand stitching. We're here to tell you the latter is simply not true! Even though they won't fit through the eye of a machine needle, you can still use these beauties in your sewing machine and even your serger. 8wt threads can be used by just about everyone. Here's just 6 applications for them!

Click to watch our video to see how to do the techniques below first hand.

1. Couching

This is a technique where you lay the heavy 8wt threads over the fabric, then stitch over them to hold them down. You can create some amazing textures and patterns, and experiment with changing the colours using variegated threads, or using a super fine 100wt thread so that only the couched threads show. We used our Razzle™ rayon thread for couching in the image to the right, with Mirage™ variegated 30wt thread in the needle. Who could resist those colours?

2. Bobbin Work

Another way to use 8wt threads in your sewing machine is to wind them on your bobbin and use a finer thread in the needle, such as an 80 or 100wt thread. You can then sew upside down on your fabric so that the bobbin thread is on the right side of the fabric. This is a great way to create gorgeous textures and shading, especially on art quilts!

3. Decorative Serger Stitch

This is an incredibly fast, easy, and beautiful way to finish the edges of a project as an alternative to binding. Simply load the 8wt thread in the upper loopers (and lower loopers too if you wish) with a regular serger thread in the needle. Using a rayon thread with a bit of sparkle, such as our Dazzle™ rayon and metallic thread, will create a gorgeous, touchable finish.

4. Crochet & Knitting

8wt threads are actually thick enough to be used for crochet and knitting, which actually opens up a whole new world of project options. Unlike wool, a rayon thread has a glossy shine to it that reflects the light, which can totally change the look of a crochet or knit project. We used Dazzle™ 8wt rayon and metallic thread in a crochet machine to create this shawl. Also consider crocheting or knitting espadrilles, hats, toys, or any number of projects that you'd like to add a little more "oomph" to!

5. Crafts

Tassels, bracelets, jewelry, earrings, macrame, play food... the possibilities are endless. Even if you're not sewing with these threads, you can still use them for all kinds of crafts and fun little projects! We used Eleganza™ thread to make these super simple tassel earrings.

6. Hand Embroidery

8wt thread is most commonly used when doing hand embroidery and we recommend this size if you're just starting out. This increasingly popular technique is a great way to relax and can be used for anything from embellishing quilts by hand, to stitch meditation, to doing visible mending on your clothing. Hand embroidery is very easy to get into as all you need is a hoop, a needle, and some thread! Pictured is the Chick Play pattern by Sue Spargo using Eleganza™ perle cotton thread.

These are just 6 ways to use 8wt thread, but there are many other uses out there that we haven’t delved into. How do you use 8wt thread, or is it something you’d like to start trying for yourself? Let us know on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.

Simple Ear Guard for Face Masks

If you’re wearing a face mask using elastic hoops, this simple ear guard will alleviate the pressure they put on your ears by allowing you to hoop them behind your head instead. Two buttons and a few pieces of scrap fabric and batting is all you need to make one! The best part is, they’re incredibly fast to stitch together and can save you a lot of pain, especially if you’re wearing your mask for several hours. Don’t forget to check out our accompanying face mask tutorial to make your own: https://www.wonderfil.ca/blog/easy-diy-face-mask-with-filter-pocket-amp-fitted-nose-crimp/4/8/2020

Materials:

Download the super simple pattern by clicking here.

We used Designer 40wt all-purpose polyester thread to sew our ear guards for added security

We recommend DecoBob 80wt cottonized polyester in pre-wound bobbins as this strong thread offers the most consistent tension for ease of sewing.

2 pieces of fabric cut to the size indicated in the pattern

1 piece of batting cut to the size indicated in the pattern

2 medium sized buttons

Direction:

Before starting, don’t forget to download the pattern linked at the top of our materials list and choose the size you wish to sew. We’re demonstrating using the child size in the pattern. Cut out your 2 pieces of fabric and the batting. These pieces are small enough that we were able to cut them from our scraps!

Place your batting piece together with one of the fabric pieces against the wrong side. Pin together and sew all the way around on a ¼” (0.63cm) seam allowance.

We added two rows of quilting through the middle to further secure the pieces together. This batting adds an extra layer of cushion against your head so that it sits more comfortably.

Lay this stitched piece together with the second piece of unstitched fabric facing right sides together. Pin in place and sew on a ¼” (0.63cm) seam allowance, leaving a 2” (5.1cm) gap to turn the piece through. Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end.

Trim the extra fabric away from the edges, being very careful not to cut into your stitches. Then turn the piece right sides out.

We handstitched the remaining gap closed using DecoBob 80wt thread, the same thread we used in the bobbin while sewing in the machine. This small thread will hide better in the fabric so it won’t be seen. We used a smaller short darner size 11 needle to sew it.

For the final step, we’ll be sewing the two buttons on by hand. Using Designer 40wt thread now and a sharps needle, simply stitch each button to the end of the rectangle.

Your ear guard is now ready to be used! This simple and quick project will help alleviate the pressure face mask elastics put on your ears for a more comfortable wear.

Sewing Reverse Appliqué: Free Pillow Pattern!

Reverse appliqué is a beautiful way to add interest to any project such as quilts, table runners, bags or decorative pillow cases. This technique is easy to follow along with for beginners and is offers a little more texture than traditional appliqué. We’ll show you how to sew reverse appliqué, then turn it into a fun decorative pillow cover, free pattern included!

Download and print the free pattern by clicking here.

Thread:
•DecoBob and DecoBob Pre-wound bobbins: https://shopwonderfil.com/product-category/decobob
• Splendor: https://shopwonderfil.com/product-category/splendor

Material:
• At least two 15” x 15” complimenting fabrics, we chose cottons

Needle:
• 80/12 Schmetz : https://shopwonderfil.com/product/machine-needles

About the technique: In traditional applique you have a separate cut out piece of fabric and you sew it directly onto another piece. In reverse applique you actually cut out shapes out of the top layer of fabric to reveal the fabric beneath it.

Cut out two pieces of fabric at the same shape and size, we did 15” X 15”. This pillow will be 14” when finished as the size we gave allows for ½” seam allowance around the pattern. Whatever fabric you pick for the bottom will peek through the top fabric - that is why we chose a patterned motif for this. For the pillow back we cut a rectangle that is 15” X 11”.

Next we are going to start by grabbing our matching thread. We chose to use DecoBob since it is so lightweight and thin it makes the seams have very reduced bulk. We are also using and 80/20 needle for our machine to ensure a smooth stitch.

Place the two pieces of fabric right side up with the fabric you want contrasting on the bottom.  Make sure the top fabric is on top of the contrast fabric.

Baste all the way around with a ¼” seam allowance just to hold the pieces together while we cut/appliqué them.

Next you want to grab the pattern that is linked above. We printed this pattern onto cardstock just for a bit more stability.  We used a small knife to cut out the little diagonal windows so we can transfer it onto our fabric. Then trace through the windows you cut out onto your fabric. We used a disappearing marker.

Once you have transferred the pattern, very carefully separate the fabric and cut away your shapes from only the top fabric. When all of the shapes are cut out, then you want to pin the top fabric to the bottom so that it will not move around. Pin around each cut out shape to prevent it from shifting. Or as an alternative option you can glue the top fabric to the bottom around the cut outs with a fabric glue.

Then with your machine, you want to stitch around the cut out shape very close to the edge. This will secure the top to bottom layer so that we can appliqué it nicely.

You could choose to leave the edges raw and continue to make the rest of the pillowcase. We are going to use a decorative stitch on our machine to hide this edge, and it helps to enclose this way if your top fabric frays too. We decided to add a little pop and changed our thread to Splendor, which is a beautiful shiny rayon thread.  We kept the DecoBob in the bobbin.

We recommend adding a stabilizer before finishing off the applique on the edges, as it will add a little bit more structure and strength to the area. We added tear away stabilizer to the wrong side of this piece and ironed it on.

We did a satin stitch around each edge (zig zag). Make sure that when you are sewing this, that the stitch will enclose the raw edge.

When finished the shapes should look something like this:

Once you are happy with this stitching then you can tear away the excess stabilizer on the wrong side.

Now we are going to make the pillow back. Along one 15” edge of a back piece press a 1” hem to the wrong side of the fabric.

Once you have ironed this 1” hem then fold it over again to enclose the raw edge of the fabric.

Stitch along the pressed edge to create a 1” double hem. Sew close to the edge so that the hem lays flat and will not pop up. Repeat this step for the other back piece so that there is one finished hem edge on both.

Face the hemmed edges together and lay one back piece on top of the other. On one piece we used pins to mark 3” from the hemmed side. When placing one on top of the other it should line up with this three-inch mark- giving a 3” overlap. Then once they are placed with the 3” overlap, pin together so they stay in place.

Baste the raw edges where they overlap to help hold it in place. Baste at ¼” so that it will be hidden in the seam. Then place the right side of the back of the pillowcase ad the right side of the front pillowcase together.

Then you can pin around the outside, and stitch around the entire square. Use a ½” seam allowance.

Once you have sewn the whole square then cut straight across the corners of the fabric - making sure not to catch any of your stitch. This will reduce bulk and let the corners come out crisper. Turn your pillowcase to the right side through the double hemmed opening made on the back.

Once pulled through then make sure the corners are poked out well. You can use your fingers, or something pointy but not too sharp such as a chopstick. Then you can lightly iron around the edges- this will make the seam lay better when the pillow form is inserted.

Insert the pillow form through the back opening to finish!

There are so many ways to use reverse appliqué. We hope that you enjoyed making this project! Whether you decided to make this pillow, or use the technique in another way we would love to see. Tag us on Facebook @wonderfil, Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads, or using the hashtag #wonderfil. Happy crafting!

DIY Face Mask By Hand With Filter Pocket & Fitted Nose Crimp

Don’t have a sewing machine at home? No problem, you can still make your own face masks by sewing them by hand using our pattern that includes an optional nose crimp (for a better fit to your face) and filter pocket. The best part is, it can all be completed with items you likely have around your house already! If you’d like to check out our alternative tutorial on sewing this face mask using a sewing machine, click here.

Download the written instructions and pattern PDF here: https://bit.ly/2UTT1fN 

Materials needed:

• Top fabric in 100% cotton -
For Adult: 9” x 8” (22.9cm x 20.3cm)
For Kids: 8.5” x 8” (21.6cm x 20.3cm)
• Lining fabric in 100% cotton -
For Adult: 7” x 7.5” (17.8cm x 19cm)
For Kids: 6.5” x 7.5” (16.5cm x 19cm)
• (option 1) Elastic cord - Note that we found the round elastic more comfortable to wear over a longer period of time, but a flat elastic cord will still function if that’s what you have.
• (option 2) If you do not have any elastic cord at home, you can sew your own ties by cutting 2 of 12” x 1” strips of fabric, folding it in half twice lengthwise, and sewing down the center to secure them.
• Sewing thread - We used Designer™ 40wt polyester for the top thread as it is strong and flexible, and DecoBob™ 80wt cottonized polyester in the bobbin. Cotton sewing thread will also work just fine.
• (optional) Aluminum can or paper clip for the nose crimp

* Note that 100% cotton is recommended to sew your masks from as it offers both breathability while still doing an okay job filtering particles.

Filter:
• Cut to 6.5“ x 2.5” (16.5cm x 6.4cm). If you have access to a non-woven polypropylene fabric (used in the manufacturing of face masks), this would make the best filter to place in this pattern’s filter pocket and would be disposed of after use. However if you do not, you can use another piece of 100% cotton fabric as we did in this video. You can either dispose of it after use or wash it as described below.

Washing your face mask:
• It is recommended that your reusable face mask is washed in your home washing machine with the water settings on hot using regular washing detergent. It should then be completely dried in the dryer on high heat. Wash your face mask after each use.

Direction:

We’ve got two sizes for both adults and kids so you can make masks to help keep your whole family safe! Begin by cutting out your front and lining fabric pieces according to the size you need from the PDF pattern downloadable at the top. Demonstrated below is the adult size.

Press the hem up on both the main and lining pieces by ½” (1.3cm) along one of the long sides.

Then stitch across the hems on the main and lining pieces using a backstitch to secure them.

Place your lining and main fabrics right sides together, centered on the long edge opposite the hems. Pin together, then backstitch along this edge to secure them.

Flip the fabric pieces over so they are now facing the wrong sides together and press the seam so it lays flat.

If you wish you add a nose crimp for a better fit, you can cut a 4” x 0.5” (10cm x 1.3cm) strip out of an aluminum can, or use a cut piece of paper clip of pipe cleaner. Watch our video located above beginning at 1:50 to see how to safely cut open an aluminum can.

Place the nose crimp between the main and lining fabric, centered along the connecting seam. Then fold the fabric back over and pin around the strip to create a small pocket for it. You can use the placement of these pins to act as a guide for where you should backstitch around the nose crimp strip.

Once your nose crimp is secured in place, fold ½” (1.3cm) from the bottom of the main fabric and press it in place.

Flip your mask over to the right side and create 3 pleats by folding down from the top. Press the pleats into place.

Pin your pleats into place along the backside. You can now begin backstitching it all down on each end.

The bottom of your mask will have an opening for the filter to be placed!

Fold one of the ends over by ½” (1.3cm) and press. Then fold it over one more time and press it again to hide the raw edges. Pin it to hold it in place and then do the same on the other side.

Using a whip stitch, sew the inside edge to the lining to create a pocket for the elastic/strap to run through. Be careful not to sew through to the other side of the fabric.

Finally, take your elastics or sewn straps and attach a safety pin to the end to help feed it through the pockets you sewed on each end. If you used elastics, you can tie them in a knot and hide the knot inside the pocket. Sewn straps can be tied behind your head as you don the mask.

Simply place a filter in the pocket and your face mask is ready to be worn! Don’t forget to press the nose crimp around the contours of your nose for a better, tighter fit.

How to Darn a Sock by Hand

Socks are always one of the fastest pieces of clothing to wear out, so why not try to preserve them (and its mate) instead of just tossing them away when a hole shows up? Darning is a super simple technique everyone can do, and you can use this technique for any piece of clothing, accessory, blanket, or item that has a hole in the fabric. We’ll show you two ways of darning a sock, whether you want to make it look good as new or embellish it with a statement.

First thing you will want to do is take a close look at the thickness of your sock. In order to mend the hole you need a thread that is a similar weight to the sock. 

For our thicker sock we are using a 3wt thread called Eleganza, which you can purchase here: https://www.suespargo.com/store.php?cat=90. We love this thread line because since it has been double gassed it results in very low lint- making it very smooth and easy to work with. It is also very strong and therefore great for mending.

3wt Eleganza

For the thinner sock we are using the same Eleganza but in a thinner 8wt instead. You can purchase following the same link listed above.

8wt Eleganza

We are using a darning mushroom, this will give us a nice large curved surface that makes the perfect platform to do the stitches on. We got ours from Clover, though there are many places that you can get one. As an alternative you could use anything small and curved like a snow globe, mug, jar, etc.

We are going to be using a needle that comes with this kit to darn our socks. There are three sizes of needle included in this- use the appropriate size based on the thread for mending the sock.

You want to place your sock onto the darning tool. Make sure the right side of the sock is facing out so you can see it.

You want to position so you have a nice placement of your hole over the darning tool. Then secure with the band included, or use an elastic band/hair tie.

For our hole we are cutting about 20” of the Eleganza 3 wt thread. This measurement will of course differ depending on the size of your hole.

Thread your needle and then we are ready to start sewing! Start on the top right of your hole. Pull the thread through with a knot on the wrong side. Then pull your thread through down to the opposite side on the bottom.

Repeat, working from right to left. Once you have covered the hole, extend a little past into the fabric- just to secure the thread. You can remove from your needle, but leave the tail long for now as we will secure and tie it off at the end.

Next to make this mending stronger we are creating a weaved stitch in the opposite direction. You can use the same color of thread, but to make it look a little funkier we are doing an accenting color. Working perpendicular, with your needle weave above and below the previously created stitches. Leave a long tail where you started your stitch, and once you reach the other side take a small pick of the sock before starting the next line of the weave.

When you have your stitch in the sock fabric at the end of the row, then you can continue back the way your started going under and over the opposite threads you did in the first row. Make sure you are going over and under the correct thread for your row, or else the weave pattern will not be created.

Continue until you have filled the whole area with the weave. You should have a tight and strong area now. Leave all of the thread ends long.

You can pull the sock off the darning tool and cut the thread tails to about 2 or 3 inches. Then pull the threads through to the wrong side of the sock using the needle.

Take the extra thread strand and stitch a few small stitches on the wrong side before tying a knot.  Repeat for all thread tails.

Once finished then iron the patch to smooth it out.

Now you have a super cool patch that will add a little pop of colour!

If you are looking to integrate the look of your darning so it blends in with the rest of the sock, you may want to choose a smaller thread, closer to the strands in your sock, with a matching thread colour. Because the thread is taking up less space, it may take a little longer to complete your darning.  Repeat the same steps as listed above.

We hope that this fun tutorial may have helped you salvage a few pairs of socks. If you decided to try something funkier or decided to do a subtler mend, we would love to see it. Tag us on Facebook @wonderfil, Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads, or using the hashtag #wonderfil. Happy crafting!

Easy DIY Face Mask With Filter Pocket & Fitted Nose Crimp

To keep both you and your loved ones safe, we've created a face mask pattern and video tutorial with an optional nose crimp and filter pocket. And it can all be completed with items you probably have around the house already! Check out our easy DIY face mask tutorial from the link in our bio. Stay safe, everyone!

Download the written instructions and pattern here: https://bit.ly/2UUTIWl

Materials needed:

• 9” x 8” (22.9cm x 20.3cm) top fabric in 100% cotton
• 7” x 7.5” (17.8cm x 19cm) lining fabric in 100% cotton
• (option 1) Elastic cord - Note that we found the round elastic more comfortable to wear over a longer period of time, but a flat elastic cord will still function if that’s what you have.
• (option 2) If you do not have any elastic cord at home, you can sew your own ties by cutting 2 of 12” x 1” strips of fabric, folding it in half twice lengthwise, and sewing down the center to secure them.
• Sewing thread - We used Designer™ 40wt polyester for the top thread as it is strong and flexible, and DecoBob™ 80wt cottonized polyester in the bobbin. Cotton sewing thread will also work just fine.
• (optional) Aluminum can or paper clip for the nose crimp

* Note that 100% cotton is recommended to sew your masks from as it offers both breathability while still doing an okay job filtering particles.

Filter:

• Cut to 6.5“ x 2.5” (16.5cm x 6.4cm). If you have access to a non-woven polypropylene fabric (used in the manufacturing of face masks), this would make the best filter to place in this pattern’s filter pocket and would be disposed of after use. However if you do not, you can use another piece of 100% cotton fabric as we did in this video. You can either dispose of it after use or wash it as described below.

Washing your face mask:

• It is recommended that your reusable face mask is washed in your home washing machine with the water settings on hot using regular washing detergent. It should then be completely dried in the dryer on high heat. Wash your face mask after each use.

Direction:

Cut out the main and lining fabric as per the sizes listed. On the long side of each piece of fabric, press the hem up by ½” (or 1.3cm).

Using a ¼” (or 0.65cm) seam allowance, sew across the hems on both pieces of fabric.

The right side of your fabric will look like this:

Place the lining fabric on the top fabric right sides together with the lining piece centered in the middle of the long side and the raw edges together. Pin them in place against the raw edge.

Sew along the raw edge with a ¼” (0.65cm) seam allowance.

Flip the pieces around so they’re now facing the wrong sides together and give it a press so it lays flat.

Next we’ll be adding a nose crimp so that the face mask fits around the contours of the nose better. This will result in a snugger and more comfortable fit. We will be making our nose crimp from an aluminum can, however you can also use a piece of cut paper clip as well. If you would prefer not to include a nose crimp in your mask, you can skip this step.

To safely cut open an aluminum can, punch a hole using an exacto knife on each end of the can. Take a pair of sharp and sturdy scissors (not your fabric scissors!) and cut away the top and bottom of the can.

Cut straight up through the center to open the can up and trim away the sharp, jagged edges on each end. You’ll now have a flat piece of aluminum to cut your nose crimp from. Using an exacto knife, cut a ½” (1.3cm) strip from aluminum and trim it down to a length of 4” (10cm). Because the corners will still be sharp, we recommend buffing them out with a sheet of extra fine sandpaper so that it doesn’t tear into the fabric. A nail file will also work in a pinch.

Place the aluminum strip between the top and lining fabric, snug against the seam where they are sewn together. Keep it centered and use pins on either side and under it to hold it in place, while also giving yourself a visual on where you should sew to create a pocket around it.

Next, fold ½” (1.3cm) from the fabric on the opposite edge from the nose strip pocket and press it into place.

Flip the fabric over to the right side and fold 3 pleats all the way down the fabric. Press them into place.

Pin the pleats into place on the wrong side and sew on a ¼” (0.64cm) seam allowance from the edge of the lining fabric.

The opening at the bottom can fit a 6.5“ x 2.5” (16.5cm x 6.4cm) size filter sheet!

To create a pocket for the ear elastics (or straps if you’re sewing your own), fold the raw edges on each side over by ½” (1.3cm), then again a second time, pressing after each fold.

Sew as close as you can to the inner edge to create a hole for your elastics/straps.

Your face mask is almost complete! It will look much like this:

The last step is to put the elastic or straps through the holes. For elastics, cut two 12” (30.5cm) long lengths. If you are sewing your own straps, cut two 12” x 1” (30.5cm x 2.5cm) pieces of fabric. Fold them in half lengthwise twice and sew once down the center to secure them.

Elastics

Fabric Straps

Using a safety pin pinned to the elastic/strap, run it through the pocket to the other side. If you are using an elastic, knot both ends and hide the knot inside the pocket. If you are using straps, they can be secured behind your head when you are ready to wear it.

To fit the mask to your face, put it on and press around the aluminum strip to mould it around the shape of your nose. Please follow the washing instructions listed at the top to ensure your reusable face mask stays sanitary!

Hand Embroidered Garden Beetles Using Pre-Cut Wool Circles

These pre-cut wool circles come in various sizes and colors are a huge time saver! Here’s one idea on how to purpose pre-cut circles into some cute garden beetles that can be appliquéd onto bags, accessories, or integrated into a quilt block or another project. Use simple hand embroidery stitches to bring it all together.

Materials:

Download the free pattern by clicking here.

Pre-cut Wool Circles:
1 1/2” in Orange, Green, Yellow
1/4” in Grey

#8 Eleganza Perle Cotton Embroidery Thread:
EZ200 Black, EZ144 Emerald, EZ226 Dandelion Puff

Efina 60wt Egyptian Cotton Appliqué Thread:
EF34 Sun Yellow, EF13 Electric Lime, EF21 Rhubarb, EF30 Black

To begin, pin your 1 ½” size pre-cut wool circles to your quilt block or project. Appliqué them down using the Efina 60wt cotton. If you are using the pre-cut wool circles pictured below, Efina thread is actually designed to match the colors in the wool perfectly so it disappears almost completely.

After appliquéing the pieces, your beetles should look something like this.

You can now begin embroidering the little details in! We used a disappearing marker to trace the beetle patterning, making it easy to follow when stitching.

We’ll be hand embroidering the beetles using Eleganza #8 perle cotton. Using a simple backstitch or chain stitch is all you need to trace the outlines and legs, but get creative and experiment with other stitches to add texture and dimension!

Whether you follow our pattern or create your own, we’d love to see what you made. Tag us on Facebook @wonderfil or Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads, or using the hashtag #wonderfil. Happy crafting!

DIY Places I’ve Been Pin Cushion

This palm-sized pin holder is perfect for showing all the places you’ve visited around the world (or perhaps all the places you’d like to visit someday)! We’ve simplified the 7 continents and provided a handy layout map to arrange them with. Simply cut and sew your sphere, stuff it, and appliqué the pieces on top. All the techniques involved are easy enough for beginner sewers!

To start off you can print out our free pattern by clicking here.

Next you can gather materials. Here is a list of materials that we suggest for this project:

Fabric:

• 100% Merino Wool Fabric in color #LN53

• 100% Merino Wool Fabric 1/64 Packs Green and Grey

Thread:

• Konfetti 50wt cotton, color 609

• DecoBob Prewound Bobbin color 319

• Efina 60wt cotton, colors 01, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16

Other:

• Polyester fibre fill (you can also use rice or beans as an alternative)

You can find the material and thread on our site: https://shopwonderfil.com/

Once you cut out the pattern pieces for the design then we are going to start off with the sphere part of the globe. You will cut the sphere template out of the wool mentioned above (color we suggest is 53)

After cutting this out it should look as pictured below:

To assemble: stack two pieces together and sew along one side. We suggest pinning to hold in place, though if you have more experience you can probably manage with no pins.

We are going to sew these pieces together on a machine. We suggest using the thread called Konfetti as a top thread and a DecoBob Prewound bobbin. The colors we are using are 609 for Konfetti and 319 for the bobbin; these will match well with the wool, and create a nice smooth seam.

You can sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance along each edge, combining the long sides of the sphere together.

Place the pieces together until you begin creating the sphere shape.

When attaching the final 5th piece to your sphere you want to make sure to leave enough of a gap so your can turn it through.

Once you have completed all of the seams then trim the seam allowance. This will make the seams less bulky when you pull it through to the right side. Be careful not to catch any stitches.

After trimming you can turn your sphere inside out through the opening you left.

You can now fill with stuffing!

Next you are going to close the opening we made. We used DecoBob since it is so thin, it hides the stitching well. Hand-stitch your opening shut. The easiest way to do this is with a whipstitch.

Now we have a lovely sphere! You can now begin appliquéing your continents down.

We used colors from our Merino wool packs in Green and Grey to cut out our continents.

Once you cut out your shapes then you can begin assembling.

You can place them on the cushion using pins. We included the layout with the pattern, or you can reference a map of your choice.

We are going to hand sew these sections of wool onto the sphere. The thread we are using is called Efina. This is a great cotton thread, and will match the wool perfectly. The colors that we are using to match are: 01, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, and 16.

To finish it off just hand applique the sections. Once again you can use a whipstitch or anything that you want to secure the land to the sphere.

Now you are all done! I hope that with this neat earth pincushion will keep you thinking about cool trips from the past and future. Though we are all grounded at home lately, stay positive and set goals or plans for the future to look forward to! We hope that you enjoyed making this project! If you decided to make this pincushion we would love to see. Tag us on Facebook @wonderfil, instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads, or using the hashtag #wonderfil. Happy crafting!

Catnip Carrot Cat Toy

Have a cat at home that needs some lovin'? Entertain them (and you!) with a homemade catnip-stuffed carrot toy. This simple pattern can be whipped up in under an hour but will provide several hours of fun for your fluffy feline. This simple and quick project can be done with just a few small pieces of wool or felt fabric and some basic hand stitches to make it look pretty.

Materials:

-       Download and print the free pattern here.

-       Loose catnip to stuff the toy with.

-       A sheet of orange wool or felt material, approx. 9” x 7” (we used color LN49 Kumquat from the 1/32 Merino wool size packs in Orange).

-       One or two colours of green wool or felt material, approx. 7” x 4.5” (we used colors LN14 Periodot and LN16 Pine Needle from the 1/64 Merino wool size packs in Green).

-       A top thread for sewing in the machine (we used 50wt Egyptian cotton Konfetti thread in color KT404).

-       A bobbin thread (we used 80wt DecoBob cottonized poly in color DB410).

-       #8 perle cotton embroidery thread (we used Eleganza perle cotton in colors EZ118 New Spring and EZM1060 Volcano)

(optional) A wool/acrylic thread to sew the top shut after stuffing (we used Ellana wool/acrylic in color EN49 Kumquat to pair with the orange wool precisely).

Begin by cutting out and tracing the free pattern (downloadable above) and cutting out your carrot pieces.

Use your #8 perle cotton to add some embellishments to your pieces. While you can embellish your them however you like, we used a simple chain stitch to add some accents to each wool piece.

Load your machine with a regular sewing thread in the top and bobbin. Lay your two orange carrot pieces right sides together and sew using a ¼” (quarter inch) seam allowance to sew the sides and tip together. Begin slightly below the corner on one side and end at the same place on the opposite so that you leave an opening at the top. Don’t forget to backstitch on both ends.

Trim and turn your piece inside out so the right sides are facing out again. Now you can stuff the pocket with catnip! Don’t overstuff the toy and ensure the top flap will lay flat so you can still sew it shut.

Arrange the two leaves in the top and tuck in the loose edges. Pin or clip it all together and hand sew the opening closed using the wool/acrylic thread. This thread will blend in significantly better into the wool fibres, especially if you use the Merino wool and Ellana wool/acrylic thread as they are dyed to the exact same color.

That’s actually all there is to it! This adorable little toy will keep your cat busy for hours. If you make it yourself, don’t forget to tag us on social media using #wonderfil to share it with us!

No Sew Wool Fabric Succulents

If you are anything like me, keeping plants alive may be a bit of a challenge. Many people turn to fake plants to fill up their space and make it lively. We all know home décor can be pretty pricey, so we are going to show you an inexpensive and crafty way to spice up your space. We are going to be showing you how to make some pretty wool succulents that require no sewing as pictured below:

What you’ll need: Green wool, hot glue/gun, free downloadable pattern, and anything to add depth of color such as paint, crayons, lipstick, eye shadow, etc.

For the wool we recommend using for these succulents is 100% superior grade Australian merino wool, and we are using colors LN17, and LN16. If you want to do the same you can find more information to purchase here

Getting Started: You can download our free pattern right here: https://bit.ly/2UUIGgo and it is pictured below.

Cut out the pattern with paper scissors so you can pin or trace out onto your wool. We decided to pin the paper to the wool, and cut this way.

Once you have them all cut out we began with succulent number one. In order to add a bit of realism we added some lipstick to the outer edges for a pop of color.

Assembly: Take piece 1A and put a little circle of glue in the middle.

Place piece 1B on top of 1A and off set it so that they do not line up. This will give more dimension. We used a marker to push the pieces together, especially since the glue can burn you.

To add some more depth you want to glue the sliver of 1C in order to close the shape, so it will look more like a cone.

Glue 1C on top of your succulent, and repeat with 1D. Making 1D also into a cone by gluing to close the gap and then adding it on top of your succulent.  We pushed into the middle with a pen to make sure it is all secured.

Take piece 1F and roll it up- creating a cylinder shape.

Then place glue and then 1F onto the top of your succulent. And it should look something like the picture below.

Succulent 2: To prep and add more dimension again we added lipstick to the outer edges, and eye shadow around the pieces.

Assembly: Take piece 2A and add a circle of glue in the middle. And then take piece 2B and adhere it to the bottom. Making sure it is again off set

Cutting a little x into the middle of pieces 2C, 2D, and 2E will add depth.

On your succulent add another circle of glue in the middle and add piece 2C. Push in the middle of the x , you cut to combine the pieces and also add a little space for the next piece to sink down into (adding depth)

Then continue adding pieces 2D and 2E the same way, pushing the middle in with a pen. Then same with succulent 1 you want to roll 2F and place on the top in the middle to add the finishing touch. It should look something like pictured below.

To style your wool succulents, you could place them on a small pot, or perhaps a tray, and that’s it. You have created some plants that require no care that will brighten up your space! We would love to see how yours turned out as well. Tag us on Facebook @wonderfil, instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads, or using the hashtag #wonderfil. Happy crafting!